Table of Contents

I. INTRODUCTION

II. COMMERCIAL CHARACTERISTICS REQUIRED

III. HIDE AND SKINS QUALITY

IV. CONCLUSION

I. INTRODUCTION

1. This document provides a brief analysis of the main problems which, in the eyes of European importers, need to be addressed in order to permit an expansion of trade in hides and skins. Some of the most common defects affecting the quality of hides and skins, especially in developing countries, are also reviewed.

2. Among the requirements stressed by the European tanning industry and the importers of raw hides and skins, semi-finished and finished leather are the need for raw product imports to be of high and homogenous quality, with regular grading and for goods to be delivered within the terms of the contract.

3. The document will be supplemented by an analysis of the needs of the European tanneries which will be presented to the Session by the Director of ICEC, the Italian certification body in tanneries and market leather.

II. COMMERCIAL CHARACTERISTICS REQUIRED

Uniformity

4. Importers have often indicated that uniformity and regularity of raw products are essential requisites. Irrespective of the stage of processing, goods delivered should correspond to what has been ordered, i.e. shipments should be of uniform grade, finish, colour and thickness, made with the same manufacturing process and identically packaged. At the raw stage, hides and skins should be graded and trimmed according to the importer's specifications. Uniformity is also essential in aspects of finish, such as colour and grain. Delivered goods should be identical to the samples on the basis of which the transaction has been concluded and they should have identical properties piece per piece.

5. Uniformity saves considerable time for the importing tannery by avoiding lengthy checks and measurements of lots received. Uniformity in weight can be obtained by making batches of the same weight-range and trimmed according to generally accepted standards. Uniformity in size is achieved by machine measuring. Uniformity in thickness can be achieved by splitting leathers in layers as requested by the buyer or by sorting pieces into lots of the same thickness to meet the usual requirements of the market.

Regularity

6. Regularity in processing is important for those developing countries which export semi-finished and finished leather products. This requires quality control in the factory, so that successive partial shipments correspond to the terms of the sales contract. Regularity in processing is obtained by using the same procedures, the same chemicals, dyes and resin, so that exactly the same shades and finish will be achieved.

7. Regularity of the mechanical and physical properties of the leather may be ensured by regular laboratory testing of the batches as regards breaking point, stability to heat, cold, resistance to water, etc.

Fashion and Design

8. Design of consumer goods such as footwear, handbag and other accessories, car upholstery, furniture and other luxury leather furniture must match the preferences of consumers. For some products, e.g. dresses, fashion colours and design patterns change frequently, often seasonally, but for other goods, such as leather upholstery, variations in taste occur over longer intervals. Fashion designs for leather articles are closely related to dress fashion. In Western Europe it is mainly French and Italian designs that set the general trend of dress fashion textile and leather, and footwear accessories are made to suit dress design. Consequently dress fashion can significantly influence the leather market. The preference for high boots, for example, led to an increased demand for leather in the past decade. Close cooperation with the buyers would provide exporters with an excellent source of information on fashion and design variations in the main markets. Alternatively this information is to be found at trade shows and fairs.

Delivery schedules

9. Delivery on time is a requirement that more than any other applies to all processing stages, and exporters face a number of difficulties including distance, irregular means of transport, and production problems such as power cuts etc. Adherence to a time schedule based on the time required to produce, pack, transport to port or airport, clear customs, and load help to avoid untimely deliveries, which can result in cancelled and unrepeated orders. In such situations buyers look for other suppliers until confidence is re-established.

III. HIDE AND SKINS QUALITY

10. The European trade reports that quality of material is a major problem, with a high level of avoidable damage to hides and skins, representing significant commercial losses and reductions in levels of foreign earning by exports. Improvement of the quality of raw material is therefore a key factor in expanding trade in the hides and skins sector. Importers have indicated that the first step towards improving the quality of raw products is the elimination of those defects which often cause the downgrading and consequent rejection of the raw material.

Mechanical injuries

11. The quality of hides and skins is determined largely by the manner in which animals are raised, and the care which is taken of them. In general, those procedures which are good for the general health and wellbeing of the animal, including the production of meat and milk, are equally beneficial to hides and skins production.

12. Special attention is also required when transporting animals to the market and the slaughter house, since any damage to the animal will not have time to heal before the animal is slaughtered and any defect will remain on the hide or skins as an open wound. The range of different problems that can occur at this stage is extensive and includes most of those described in Table 1, and many others associated with transportation.

13. The following table illustrates the principal sources of physical damage and their causes.

Table 1 : MECHANICAL INJURIES AFFECTING HIDES AND SKINS

Major diseases and parasitic infections

14. Diseases and infections can have a major impact on the hides and skins of animals. Even if the damage to a hide or skin was incurred some weeks or months before slaughter, the effects may persist because of the presence of scar tissue which becomes prominent during tanning because it fails to absorb chemicals to the same extent as the surrounding material. In some areas parasite damage is a serious and worsening problem. Particular issues are lice and ked damage to sheep skins and mange damage to goat skins. Sources of infestations can be difficult to identify, but large movements of human and animal populations can spread disease and parasites, and once these became widely spread then specific control measures are needed.

Table 2 : DISEASES AND PARASITIC INFECTIONS OF HIDES AND SKINS

Physical defects caused by other factors

15. Inadequate storage conditions and lack of preserving agents may lead to damage of grain and texture through decay in particular areas of leather.

16. To avoid some degree of deterioration during storage, as well as more substantial damage attributable to infestation by insects, for example, the period of storage should be kept to a minimum. For similar reasons transportation procedures should be as rapid and direct as possible. Prompt storage and transportation of hides and skins will also minimise capital expenses deployed in the maintenance of large stocks of raw materials. Appropriate storage and transportation procedures vary according to the method of preservation that has been used.

IV. CONCLUSION

17. This document provides a brief outline of some of the requirements of European importers of hides and skins, and some of the common faults found in the material. The document is to be supplemented by a presentation to the Session by an expert representative of importers, and delegations may wish to offer additional views. It is hoped that this information will be helpful to countries seeking to expand their exports to European and to other countries.