The Presentation of County Harghita
1.1 County Harghita is placed on the Transylvanian Platform
in the central region of the Oriental Carpathians.
The county being one of the smallest counties of the country has 6639
sq kms representing 2.8% of the territory of the country. The main trait
of the relief consists in the prevailing of the mountain areas, the latter
occupying more than 60% of the territory of the county. Three main units
of relief can be distinguished: mountains with a 2000 m height, hills with
medium heights (around 800 m) and intra-mountain and intra-hill depressions
with heights between 400-800 m.
The mountain relief is grouped in two parallel chains on the northwest-southeast
direction. In the central part are situated the volcanic chains of the mountains
Gurghiu (with the top Prisca, 1777 m), Central Harghita Mountains (with the
top Harghita Madaras, 1801 m) and South Harghita Mountains (with the top
Cucu, 1558 m).
The hydrographic network consists in three main basins: Mures, towards
west (with Târnava Mare and Târnava Mica), Olt towards South
(with Homorodul Mare and Homorodul Mic) and Bistrita and Trotus towards east.
In the county there is the only lake of the country, which has volcanic
origin, St. Anne's Lake, placed in the picturesque area of the volcanic
crater Ciomatu with a height of 950 m.
In the mountains of Giurgeu, along the national road DN.12.C it is situated
the biggest natural dam lake of the country, Lacu Rosu having a surface of
12.6 ha and a depth of 10.5 m. Near the top Rachitis from Calimani Mountains
there is the frigid origin lake, Iezeru, with a surface of 1300 square m.
and a depth of 3-5 m.
1.2. Natural Resources
The county has many springs of mineral waters, their number is around
2000. At Borsec, Sâncraieni, Tusnad, Plaies function water-packing
units and at Borsec and Tusnad Spa a part of these waters are used for therapeutically
purposes.
The underground of the county contains deposits of volcanic tufa (the
Depression of Borsec and Ciuc), lignite (Borsec), pyrites of copper (Balan
and Jolotca), salt (Praid) caoline (Harghita Bai), clays (Corund, Suseni,
Odorheiul Secuiesc), basalt (Toplita and Galautasi), compact limestone (Izvorul
Muresului and Lazarea), andesite (Chileni, Voslobeni, Vlahita, Praid) and
travertin (Borsec).
The forest source occupies more than 30% of the county's surface. There
are spruce fir, fir, oak and beech forests that host rich and various genetic
faunas and important resources of forest fruit: blueberry, raspberry, gooseberry,
apples and blackberry and various assortments of mushrooms and medicine plants.
1.3. Protected Areas
The geographical position of the county, at the contact of the Oriental
Carpathians with the Transylvania Basin, as well as the existent geological
forms, give the county a diverse natural frame and various faunal and floral
geo-background.
The geological and paleo geographical evolution of the territory had as
result geological phenomena, relief forms, specific fitocenosys with relic
species, which have been considered in right to be protected due to their
beauty, rarity and scientific value.
National parks with exceptional value:
- The National Park "Cheile Bicazului - Hasmas" with a surface of 6575
ha from which 50% on the territory of County Harghita and the rest on the
territory of County Neamt;
- The National Park "Calimani" with a surface of 24041 ha from which around
10% on the territory of County Harghita and the rest on the territories of
the counties Mures, Suceava, Bistrita-Nasaud.
In the protected areas of Harghita there are to be found almost all the
major types of life places: life places of sweet waters/ humid zones, swamps/coal,
grass forms/lawns/bushes, forests, rocks-caves, with a prevailing presence
of life places of swamps/coal and carstique with floral, geological and landscape
values.
On these areas we have 36 reservations and monuments of nature that occupy
5167.5 ha, around 0.78% of the surface of the county (accordingly to the
annex 1 of the law 5/2000).
Most of the protected areas are part of the eco-region of the Oriental
Carpathians (28) and some (8) in the Transylvanian Plateau.
Accordingly to the decision of the council of the county the natural
reservations of Harghita are the following ones:
|
Crt. Nr.
|
Reservation
name
|
Placement (commune,
village, city)
|
Surface (ha)
|
|
1.
|
Cheile Bicazului, Lacul Roşu
|
Gheorgheni
|
2 128
|
|
2.
|
Masivul Hăşmaş Piatra Singuratica
|
Sândominic
|
800
|
|
3.
|
Cheile Vârghişului – caves
from gorges
|
Mereşti
|
800
|
|
4.
|
Saint Ana Lake
|
Lăzăreşti
|
240
|
|
5.
|
Tinovul Mohoş
|
Lăzăreşti
|
|
|
6.
|
Tinovul Luci
|
Sâncrăieni
|
273
|
|
7.
|
După Lunca Swamp
|
Voşlobeni
|
40
|
|
8.
|
Tinovul Kicsi Romlásmező
|
Plăieşii de Jos
|
15
|
|
9.
|
Narciselor Glade
|
Vlăhiţa
|
20
|
|
10.
|
Piemontul Nyíres
|
Joseni, Borzont
|
20
|
|
11.
|
Pietrele Roşii
|
Tulgheş
|
10
|
|
12.
|
Botanical reservation
|
Borsec
|
2
|
|
13.
|
The great Swamp
|
Remetea
|
4
|
|
14.
|
Valea de Mijloc Swamp
|
Tuşnad Nou
|
4
|
|
15.
|
Nádas Bai Swamp
|
Tuşnad Nou
|
4
|
|
16.
|
Nyírkert Swamp
|
Tuşnad
|
4
|
|
17.
|
Swamp Beneş
|
Tuşnad, Vrabie
|
4
|
|
18.
|
Dobreanului Swamp
|
Bilbor
|
4
|
|
19.
|
Lacul Iez
er Reservation – Călimani
|
Topliţa
|
322
|
|
20.
|
Borsáros Swamp
|
Sâncrăieni
|
1
|
|
21.
|
Piatra Şoimilor
|
Băile Tuşnad
|
1
|
|
22.
|
Dumbrava Harghita Swamp
|
Lueta
|
2
|
|
23.
|
Mlaştina Büdös, Sântimbru
|
Sântimbru
|
3
|
|
24.
|
Firtos Hill
|
Corund
|
40
|
|
25.
|
Sânpaul Birds Stop
|
Mărtiniş, Sân
paul
|
210
|
|
26.
|
Şugău Cave
|
Valea Strâmba
|
17
|
|
27.
|
Avenul Likas
|
Gheorgheni
|
5
|
|
28.
|
Bányapatakfeje
|
Sântimbru
|
10
|
|
29.
|
Filiaş mudy volcanoes
|
Cristuru Secuiesc
|
1
|
|
30.
|
The salted Mountain
|
Praid
|
60
|
|
31.
|
Melcului Hill
|
Corund
|
8
|
|
32.
|
Rat Lake
|
Porumbenii Mari
|
10
|
|
33.
|
Termal Water Fall
|
Topliţa
|
0,5
|
|
34.
|
Scaunul Rotund Borsec
|
Borsec
|
40
|
|
35.
|
Csemő Swamp
|
Tuşnad
|
5
|
|
36.
|
The devil’s Lake
|
Carta
|
20
|
1.4. Historical Data
Regarding the history of these places there are controversial problems
discussed by historians: When has the Szekler population settled on this
territory? What origin are they? But since the chronicles have been described
them they confirm that their native tongue is and it always has been the
Hungarian one.
According to some historical sources it is shown that the Szeklers in
the Trei Scaune areas, Ciuc, Odorhei and Gheorgheni, have been settled in
the 13th century in order to defend the eastern boarders.
The written sources of that century, the Papal registers from 1333-1334,
mention several placements inhabited by this people in the areas of Ciuc,
Odorhei and Gheorgheni.
Being a military people, the kings had given it special privileges for
maintaining the ethnical and social customs. This allowed the occurrence
of different social strata.
This division appears in the same time with the foundation of the independent
principality in the 14th century. In hadn't corresponded to the military
and economical conditions and it led to various outbursts against sovereigns
as Zsigmond Janos, Istvan Bathori and Zsigmond Bathori. The sovereigns of
the 17th century admitted the privileges that they had part of for the services
brought to the sovereign but soon as Ardeal had entered under the Habsburg
domination in 1690, the Szeklers had to obey the new conditions. These conditions
and especially the obligation of joining to the border armies led to the
outburst of Siculeni in 1764, outburst put down with ruthless violence (known
in history as SICULICIDIUM) by the Habsburg army.
The outbursts from 1601-1602 and the repeatedly invasions of the Tartars
in 1657-1661 and 1694 brought great disasters in these places.
The Szeklers had a special contribution to the wars of independence led
by Ferenc Rakoczi the 2nd, to the revolution from 1848-1849 when the Szeklers
gathered at Lutita where they decided the joint to the revolution making
peace with the other peoples from Transylvania. In summer of the year 1849
(31st July-1st August) between Ciuc and Casin on the top of the Nyerges took
place one of the last lost fights during the revolution.
During the dualism on the present territory of the county there were two
counties - Ciuc and Odorhei and the area of Toplita belonged to County Mures-Turda.
Because of the lack of natural resources and that of the railways, the Szeklers'
lands developed slower than the other ones, after the construction of the
railway it developed only the wood industry. The First World War had crushed
the process of social and economical development of the beginning of the
century.
Beginning with 1920 the political structures had been changed. Transylvania
becomes a part of the Romanian country. The inhabitants of these lands tried
to adopt themselves to the new social and life conditions.
The architectonic monuments from the eastern and western part maintain
today what they have inherited from the western Christian culture. Here can
be found gothic and renaissance monuments placed at the eastern limit of
the European cultural area.
In the 13th century in Odorheiu Secuiesc was built the Jesus Chapel, conceived
in a classic shape of a church with four small towers, being witness of the
Later Romanic style in Transylvania. One of the most beautiful popular gothic
buildings is the church-fortress of Carta, built in the 15th century, having
bulwarks and gothic gate-tower and sharp windows. Another architectonic pearl
is the tower of the church of Racu-Ciuc built in the 14th century and the
exterior mural paintings are a real treasure. The frescos of the wall of
the church-fortress of Darjiu have been kept since the 14th century representing
the legend of Saint Ladislau. But what is special about it is the fact that
in the walls of the fortress had been created niches in which even nowadays
are kept the cereals of the village and food in general.
We could continue the list with the Unitarian church of Inlacen, the catholic
church of Joseni, the reformed church of Daia, the church of Sumuleu Ciuc,
the Church St. John of Delnita, the monument church from Armaseni and the
orthodox monastery of Toplita.
Among historical monuments we remind only a few fortress such as Miko
fortress from Miercurea Ciuc, the ruin-fortress of Odorheiul Secuiesc and
the Lazar castle of Lazarea.
1.4.1. Documentary Certifies
1232 - the city of Gheorgheni is mentioned in the papal register
1332-1333 - the places Toplita-Ciuc, Sumuleu, Jigodin and Cristuru Secuiesc
(Santa Crux - as it is mentioned in the papal register of fees) are founded
1558 - the first documentary certification of the city Miercurea Ciuc
1878 - the city Miercura Ciuc becomes residence of county Ciuc
1968 -county Ciuc changes its name to Harghita
1.5 The Infrastructure
1.5.1. The Road Network
The road network of county Harghita contains seven national roads (DN
11 B, DN12, DN12A, DN12C, DN13A, DN13B, DN15) with a total length of 415
km, 35 county roads with a length of 804 km and 51 communal roads with a
total length of 229 km.
Today the state of the county and communal road network is as follows
- from 804 km county roads and 229 km communal roads:
- on 253 km of road public traffic is not allowed since 1988;
- 331 km of road are modernised (32%) from which 267 km have easy pavements
and 245 km have exceeded by 11-14 years the standard service period;
-555 km of stoned roads (54%), that present an advanced usage on the whole
length and on 126 km traffic is not allowed (both the infra-structure and
the over-structure is deteriorated);
-147 km of land roads (14%)
The damaged state of the roads is due to the reduced funds that are given
for the repairing activity and investment works on the county roads.
1.5.2. The Railway Network
The total length of the railway network of county Harghita is 213 km,
from which 165 km electric line. The main line nr.400 crosses the county
north-south (from Tusnad towards Toplita); from this line braking up the
line 501 from Ciceu towards Moldavia through the gorge of Ghimes. From the
main line with east-west direction nr.300 at Vanatori breaks up a line towards
Odorheiu Secuiesc.
1.6. The Population
According to the situation on 1st January 2000 the county had 342123 inhabitants
among whom 45.4% live in the two municipalities and seven cities and a number
of 187107 in the countryside (54.6%).
In the county there are 49 communes having inhabitants between 1700-7100.
There are communes that have in administration 1-2 villages and others 9-16
villages, hamlets.
From the point of view of the nationality the population of the county
is divided in the following way: Romanians (13.7 %), Hungarians (85.1%),
Germans (0.1%), the Romany people (1%) and other nationalities (0.1%).
From the point of view of the religion the population is: 65.7% roman-catholic,
13% orthodox, 12.8% reformed, 7.2% Unitarians and 1.3% other religions.
The population from eastern part of the county of the depressions of Gheorgheni
and Ciuc is catholic, orthodox of the area of Toplita and reformed in the
area of Odorhei-Cristur.
The most important religious centre is Sumuleu-Ciuc (it belongs to Miercurea
Ciuc) where year after year on the celebration of "Rusalii" gather Hungarians
from the whole Szekler region, Csangos of the Valley Trotus and from other
communes of the neighbouring cities.
Here come parishioners from abroad and they take part in the religious
services celebrated by high magistrates of the church.
This holy day is celebrated since 1576, but in a papal document of the
year 1544 that approved the building of a Franciscan church, Sumuleu Ciuc
was already mentioned as a pilgrim place.
The population of the county in comparison with the census of the year
1910 grew with 43.3%, an important growth had the Romanian population (236.8%),
but the number of other nationalities (Germans, Jews and Armenians) diminished.
The number of the inhabitants of the urban area at the census made in January
1992 is: Mircurea Ciuc 45737 inhabitants (37913 Hungarians), Odorheiul Secuiesc
38569 (37926 Hungarians), Tusnad 1850 (1805 Hungarians), Balan 9400 (3236
Hungarians), Borsec 3068 (2451 Hungarians), Cristuru Secuiesc 10875 (10350
Hungarians), Toplita 16828 (4876 Hungarians), Gheorgheni 21129 (18885 Hungarians)
and Vlahita 7560 (7501 Hungarians).
1.7. The Human Settlements and Local Architectural Values
During centuries the population of these region had been living mainly
in the countryside. Beginning with the 18th century the development of urbanism
is remarkable and today almost half of the inhabitants live in the urban
area.
1.7.1. Urban Settlements of County Harghita
Miercurea Ciuc (municipality, residence of the county) - place known from
the 15th century, with documentary certification dated in 1558 where it is
mentioned as a fair-town (Oppidum Mercurium).
Odorheiu Secuiesc (municipality) - the place appears in the papal cashiers'
register from 1333 with the name of "Uduorhei" and in the year 1485 it becomes
a fair-town.
Tusnad -Baths (town) - the resort known from the 17th century receives
the rank of town only in 1968.
Balan (town) - the place founded after the discovery of copper deposits
in the 19th century becomes town in 1968.
Borsec (town) - one of the most famous places in the county, mentioned
for the first time in 1686 and it became town in 1956.
Cristuru Secuiesc (town) - place mentioned in the papal cashiers register
from 1333 under the name of "Sancta Cruce"; it becomes town in 1459.
Gheorgheni (town) -the place is mentioned first under the name of "Giorgio"
on the list of the papal cashiers from 1333. It becomes town only in 1726
although in that place a lot of well-known fairs took place from the beginning
of the 17th century.
Toplita (town) - place from the 15th century; becomes town in 1714.
Vlahita (town) - the first authentic document about it dates from 1406
but it becomes of town only in 1968.
A part of the architectural values belonging to the old towns represent
churches and mansions of the villages, that had initially contributed to
the foundation of settlements and that were later added to the towns. The
character of these towns is determined by old, beautiful public buildings:
mayoralties and courthouses, banks, schools, hospitals, restaurants and shops,
old industrial buildings (printing houses, bear factory, workshops, mills,
electric station), as well as private houses built in the 19th century. Becoming
relatively recently towns, the atmosphere of the resorts Tusnad and Borsec
is determined by the old and beautiful mansions and pensions.
1.7.2. The Rural Settlements of County Harghita
Village residences of commune - after the census of January 1992 in the
county exist 49 village residence of commune. The majority of these places
are very old, 20 of them being mentioned in the papal cashiers register
between 1332-1334 and other 19 places are registered with the occasion of
the census made in 1567. Seven of the present residence villages are founded
in the 17th century, in the 19th century two, in the 20th century only one.
The component villages of communes and the villages belonging to municipalities
or towns - the census of January 1992 registers 187 component villages of
the communes and 19 villages belonging to municipalities or towns. More than
50% of these places had existed before the census made in 1567, out of which
31 villages being mentioned in the period of 1332-1334 as well, in the papal
cashier's register. In the 17th -18th centuries 11 places had been founded,
the rest of the villages were being founded in the 19th century and especially
in the 20th century.
The churches, the chapels, the wood steeples and the perish houses on
the one hand and the mansions, farms, houses, the water mills and saw mills
on the other hand are the most attractive architectural values of the settlements
of the county. The most popular built elements are the famous wood gates
of the Szeklers that can be found in the majority of the county's villages.
1.8. The Economical Structure
The economy being regressive after December 1989 was prevailed by macro-tensions:
the rising inflation, the decreasing of the internal production and closely
related to it the unemployment, the budgetary deficit and the payment deficit.
Obviously this situation has reflected in the economical and social life
of the county, in the first years of transition the export and production
volume suddenly diminishing (to which contributed the interaction of the co-operation
links inside CAER), the unemployment became a constitutive element of the
social and economical life. The number of the employee represents only 75%
of the number registered in 1989. The private sector, this has appeared since
1990 because of objective reasons couldn't face the negative effects registered.
In the last two years an economic stability was registered and also a
slight increase of the production, of exports, of investment activities.
The inflation rate was reduced but these positive phenomena couldn't influence
strongly the situation of the labour force, the real incomes of the population
couldn't improve some social problems and they couldn't re-launch the solutions
of the severe problems related to the infrastructure in the wide meaning
of the word.
1.8.1. The Industry
The industrial activities have developed by exploiting and processing
the wood and by the food, textile and knitwear and manufacture industries.
During the last years the importance of the industry in the economy of
the county has increased so that today beside the main industrial branches
linked to the natural resources found in the soil and sub-soil, the industrial
activity is present through almost all its branches.
The most meaningful importance of the industrial production of the county
belongs to the wood processing and exploiting industry relied on the resources
of raw materials existing in the territory. And that represents around 27-28%
of the total, followed by the food industry 20-21%, textile and leather industry
with 15-16%.
Smaller rates are owned by the extractive branch 9%, the metallurgy 0.8-1%,
cars-making 3-4%, the industry of the electronic and the Electro-technical
products and fine mechanics - 2-2,5%, the industry of chemical and petrochemical
products - 2.8-3% and others.
In comparison with the previous years a decreasing can be seen in the
activity of metal processing and cars-making industry. It is also felt the
beginning of an increasing in the field of wood processing, textile production,
meat and milk products and liqueurs, materialised through re-launching and
the variety of the goods offered.
An important part of these products are turned to good at export, during
ages gaining the trust of the clients of the external market, clients that
had invested important amounts in the development and renewal of the technology
of the industrial units of the county.
From 8465 commercial companies and administration units registered in
the Trade Register, 30 have state capital, 47 have mixed capital, 845 own
a foreign and Romanian mixed capital and 623 are other types of economic
agents.
1.8.2. The Agriculture
Another important branch of the economy of the county is represented by
agriculture.
The agricultural field of County Harghita is of 406.4 thousands ha, from
which 92.7 thousands ha arable field, a medium of 1.15 ha/inhabitant. The
natural lawns occupy 312.3 thousands ha ensuring extremely favourable conditions
for growing animals, a very important sector from the point of view of the
incomes of the population.
Regarding the structure of the cultures there are differences between
the areas of the county.
In Odorheiu Secuiesc and Cristuru Secuiesc where the climate is soft,
the production of straw cereals and maize occupy the greatest part of the
arable areas, as well as vegetables, sugar beet, flax and potatoes.
In the areas of Ciuc, Gheorgheni and Toplita the straw cultures (autumn
wheat, barley, oat) and the potatoes occupy the main place in the crop rotation
being followed by flax and sugar beet. The potatoes for consume and seeds
of superior biological categories are cultivated on big surfaces in Tusnad,
Sanmartin, Sansimion and Miercurea Ciuc. The total annual production of the
potatoes in Harghita is in average of 2000 tonnes.
The growing of animals is a primordial occupation. In 2000 there were
80000 horned cattle (from which cows and heifers almost 56000), 78000 swine,
173000 sheep, 12000 bee families.
The raw material provided by this sector is entirely processed in the
private sector and it is commercialised in this way.
1.8.3. Trade and Public Services
The selling of goods through detailed trade - which expresses the state
of physical and structural equilibrium on the market of consumed goods and
it reflects the stage of economical evolution and especially the social
perception of it - diminished continuously, in 1996 reaching to a percentage
of only 56% in comparison with 1989.
The registered influences as a result of diminishing the budgetary subventions,
of freedom of commercial adding, of the introduction of the added value tax,
of depreciation of the coin (Lei) that determined the explosion of the prices,
show their effects today, too, by over soliciting the profit margins and
a sort of price rigidity.
The emphasised increasing of consume prices in comparison with that of
salaries and pensions, that represent the biggest part of population's incomes,
determined on the one hand the decreasing of the solvent demand and the change
of priorities in the structure of expenses in household budgets, increasing
the expenses for food on the other hand.
The sales volume on the countryside market has increased especially for
vegetables, this segment of commercialisation contributing in a great percentage
to the provisioning of the population, taking into consideration the peculiarity
of County Harghita regarding the reduced opportunities of producing vegetables.
The network of detailed trade units continued to extend relying on the
entrepreneur and on the companies with private capital. In the meantime,
it was ascertained a strong trend of reducing the specialisation degree (at
state and private) whose motivation is the competition and desire of ensuring
a greater flexibility in adjusting to the present demands of the markets.
Beginning with 1990, besides co-operative and state trade, the private trade
rapidly diversified so that from the total of more than 3000 commercial units
almost 95% are private commercial societies. As a trait of the new trade
configuration, maybe the most rapidly adjusted to the conditions of the market
economy, it is relevant the fact that from the total of commercial units
only 300 have exclusively commercial activity, the others having activities
of production, transport and services, too.
The commercial units of the state are usually administrated by tenancy,
especially in the food sector and public alimentation and by renting characteristic
especially non -food sector. Unfortunately these administrative forms did
not result in the improvement of the quality of commercial activity, many
units having been irrationally exploited, unsupported, with mixed profiles
and the "mother" commercial units have transformed in "rent collector" and
"collector of demurrage fees".
The commercial services performed for the population continued to decrease
(representing only 26,2% in comparison with 1989) especially in the case
of the services where the increasing of the taxes outran the group's average.
So, the services own a less significant part in the consume expenses of the
population, this reducing trend having been shown since 1990, reflecting
the influence of the transitions' social costs. It is registered an important
phenomenon of reduction concerning the whole commercial services of the state
incorporated sector and the increase of private sector's importance in the
meantime
Although in commercial services, the private sector has an important role,
of 65% in 1996, it doesn't have enough resources yet in order to ensure quality
services accordingly to the beneficiaries demands. In the field of industrial
services, of constructions, of serving population, the commercial societies
with state capital are replaced step by step by private firms or family
associations that hold the second place after the commercial firms.
Today, the main activities of performing services are: the means of transport
with 29.7%; hotels and restaurants 18%; financial services 10%; telecommunications
9.3%; real estate transactions 7.3%; car repairs 6.2%.
The inhabitants of the county have always had commercial links with the
neighbouring places.
The natural wealth of these lands especially the fir and the beech forests
allowed the selling of wood products to be an important source of income
for the population.
The cities and communes of the county, especially those of the Valley
of Mures and Olt, have been a good market area for wheat, maize, fruits,
vegetables and wines brought from the neighbouring counties, from Moldavia,
Country Barsei and the Valley of Tarnave
A good part of commercial exchanges has been taking place in fairs since
old times. Among the products characteristic to fairs and market the most
significant are the folk pottery of Corund and Danesti, wood tools, tubs,
clothes out of hemp and flax and different food products.
1.9. Culture
1.9.1. Museums and historical monuments
County Harghita is extremely rich in architectural values, the built national
heritage (including the vernacular one) containing around 1300 elements.
12 monuments and architecture ensembles of the county as well as archaeological
parks are considered to be historical monuments with an exceptional national
value. Beginning with February 2000 the fortified Unitarian church and the
peasant fortress of the commune Darjiu are on the list of world heritage
of the UNESCO
The fortress Miko has become the symbol of the city and it is the oldest
historical monument in Miercurea Ciuc. It dates since the 16th century and
it was twice rebuilt in 1623 under Ferenc Miko's the guidance (after the
Szeklers' outburst in 1595) when it is called Mikoujvar ('the new fortress
of Miko') and after the invasion of Turks (1661), between 1714-1716 under
the giudance of the imperial general Stephan Steinville. The copy of the plan
of the fortress (1735) has been kept up to now. Today in the fortress it
is the Szekler Museum of Ciuc with temporary and permanent exhibitions presenting
different objects related to history, architecture, natural environment, popular
occupations, scholar and church art characteristic to this region. Here is
to be found the history of the County Library including the valuable library
of Franciscans with several very old books as well as the documentary library.
Behind the fortress it is placed the Ethnographical Museum containing rural
houses typical to the region and 15 Szekler gates. In the yard of the fortress
annually takes place the Old Music Festival known world-wide.
Sumuleu is the oldest district of Miercurea Ciuc, being mentioned in the
papal cashier registers in 1333. The church built between 1804-1835, the
Franciscan monastery and the four chapels are the most well known buildings
of this catholic pilgrim centre.
The fortified churches of the villages represent a category of major
importance of the historical monuments. The majority of these churches were
older buildings (late Roman or early Gothic), being mentioned on the lists
of papal cashiers between the years of 1332-1334 and than towards the end
of the 15th century and the beginning of the next one they have been fortified
and transformed according to the late gothic style, accordingly to the changed
demands. The invasions of the Turks that had become permanent towards the
end of the 15th century made important to create a self-defence organisation
and thus took place the fortification of the Szekler churches. The first
fortification was realised appeared in the second half of the 15th century
and the first half of the next one, period that is similar to the rebuilding
of the Szeklers' churches in late gothic style. Such churches enclosed with
a relative short interior made of stone we can find in places like Ocland,
Petreni, Lutita, Feliceni, Porumbenii Mari, Satu Nou, Forteni and Nicoleni.
The most important fortifying in the depression of Ciuc from this period
is the church-fortress of Carta. To the second generation belong those ensembles
which were built in the first half of the 17th century during the reign of
Gabor Bethlen and Gyorgy Rakoczi the 1st (Darjiu, Martinis, Mihaileni, Nicolesti,
Racu, Ciucsangeorgiu). The area of Ciuc had been influenced only in small
degree by invasions of the Turks, the fortication being necessary only in
the 17th century when the Tartars began to invade the region. In this period,
were built the short stone interiors with bulwarks around churches of Tomesti,
Leliceni, Armaseni, Misentea, Santimbru, Sanmartin, Cozmeni and Delnita.
These ensembles are the most characteristic manifestations of the Szekler
society in the Middle Age.
From the point of view of the built heritage of the 15th-16th centuries
the village Lazarea has an important role because of the following reasons:
the church and chapel from the 15th century, a Franciscan Monastery from
the 17th century and the Lazar castle which is one of the few Renaissance
castles existing in whole Transylvania built by Gabor Bethlen. Today in the
re-built rooms of the castle it is exposed the collection of the International
Creative Camp of Plastic Arts founded in 1974.
One of the programmes for protecting the built heritage initiated after
1990 has been functioning in county Harghita, too, at Laceni. Thank to the
Foundation Transylvania Trust of Cluj Napoca, the rural architectural national
heritage has been protected since 1996 applying a specific system. The annual
donation is overtaken by the owners of the buildings with historical value
- with the condition to keep the architectural values of the buildings,
to appeal to the foundation for specialised counselling regarding the changes
intended. The donation for restoration covers the expenses of important
works and the amount is given according to applications. All the activities
of the programmes are based on a huge research project.
In the collections of the museum there are more than 200000 pieces presenting
the history, culture and civilisation of these places. There are manuscripts
of old books and printings like those from the well-known library of Franciscans
from Sumuleu being in the present kept and conserved at the Szekler Museum
of Ciuc. Among these there are the following ones: Codex Kajoni, the author
Johannes Kajoni (1629-1687) being the founder of the first printing house
in Sumuleu Ciuc; printings and manuscripts belonging to the scholars Mihaly
Cserei, Ferenc Miko, Balazs Orban and Janos Kriza.
The Museum Haaz Rezso of Odorheiu Secuiesc owns a documentary library
as well (books with great value - around 8000 volumes).
a. Significant cultural-artistic manifestations of the county
Upon the diversity of folklore and that of folk art in general a certain
peculiarity had imposed as a result of the co-existence through the centuries
of Romanians and Hungarians on these territories to which was added the geographical
variety. Thus there were favourable conditions for the development of some
different occupations like agriculture, shepherding, wood processing, mining
out of which comes the domestic occupations: pottery, being representative
the centres of Corund and Danesti, wood carving, shingling, painting the
wood furniture, texturing, spinning, embroidery, sewing in geometrical and
floral adornment, knitting straws and wattle, egg-painting.
Genuine creations or variants of world wide circulated creations richly
represent the literary, musical and choreographic folklore of this region.
The ballads and the legends like those about St. Anne's Lake, rivers Mures
and Olt, and that of the Horse from the Firtusu Mauntain, the Red Lake are
real pearls of the folklore constituted in a variable treasure of
spirituality which has lasted.
1.9.2. Folk Costumes
The Romanian mail folk costume: hat with large brims - winter tall hat
- half long shirt with large opened sleeves reaching the knees, trousers
of white cloth and in summer tight peasant trousers of white cloth. Upon
the tight shirt on the waist like a beautiful belt, a black waistcoat is
worn or a singled with flowers upon which a long coat can be taken.
The Romanian female folk costume: scarf with flowers, the shirt with sleeves
and flower sewing on the shoulder, with embroidered hens, tight on the waist
upon the belt; sheepskin coat designed with floral elements hemstitched with
fur. In winter are worn sheepskin made of lambs' fur or long coat, boots
with a high top or shoes.
The male Szekler folk costume: black cloth hats and in winter hat rounded
at the top; shirt made of cloth with cuff and close collar. Upon the shirt
black, grey, white, red or blue waistcoat designed with braid; trousers of
white cloth tied on the leg, which differs from village to village depending
on the way of applying the laces. Over the waistcoat it is a grey or black
coat made of cloth or also a black jacket; black boots with soft-top.
The female Szekler folk costume: the women wear scarf tied under the chin
and girls knit their hair in one or two pigtails and they put a long ribbon
or a bow and on their neck they wear beads in one colour. The young or older
wives have their hair in a loop covered with a scarf it is worn the shirt
without collar wave at the neck or shirt with the collar indented - both
kind of shirts close at the sleeve with a button. Over the shirt it is worn
a short waistcoat tailed with a slim shape from the dress's material mixed
with velvet. The adornment of the waistcoat is done with laces, beads and
buttons.
The female clothes are different by the dress made up from waved cloth
- waved skirts - at waist and upon the low border it is applied a velvet
hem. The cloth of the dresses has colourful stripes, the wideness and the
colour component being different from village to village. Upon the large
dress it is worn an apron made up of the dress's material with a various
adornment which is done by cloth or sewing floral motives and lace. They
wear boots, shoes or sandals.
The chronic of these part of the country talks about the life and the
activity of some important personalities among which we remark Gyorgy Nagy
and Ambrus Gyepes, the leaders of the peasant's outbursts from 1562; Vasile
Negrea from Odorheiu Secuiesc, captain of Ferenc Rakoczi the 2nd; Peter
Zold, the organiser of the protest movement against Habsburg absolutism
and that of the manifestations from Siculeni (1762-1764); Sandor Gal, a
revolutionary from 1848-1849 near general Bem; Johannes Kajoni, scholar
of the 17th century; Mihaly Cserei, scholar who wrote about the events of
the year 1661-1711; Balazs Orban, Elek Jakab, Imre Nagy, historians, scientists
and researchers of folklore and geography of these lands; Aron Tamasi, Laszlo
Tompa, Octavian Taslauanu, Sandor Tomcsa, writer; Bela Jozsa (1898-1943)
militant of the workers movement of Romania in the year 1943; Erno Szalamon
(1907-1943), poet and revolutionary; Istvan Nagy, Ferenc Marton, Miklos Kollo,
plastic artist; dr. Janos Banyai, geologist
1.10. Tourism
Framing harmoniously in the regions of the Oriented Carpathians
were tourism is practised all year long (cure and mineral waters baths),
winter sports, the county of Harghita owns a special touristic potential
of places pleasure famous all over Romania and abroad among which we remark
the watering and balneoclimateric resorts Tusnad, Borsec, Lacu Rosu, Izvorul
Muresului or monuments of natures as Saint Anne's Lake, the gorges of Bicaz,
the Glade of Daffodils and others. Besides the three water climateric and
watering resorts of national interest there are other 20 resorts of local
interest. The therapy peat and the mud are a significant treasure of the
county with their possibilities of revaluation in the future.
The county owns several historical monuments important from the point
of view of tourism such as the baroque complex of Sumuleu rebuilt in 1804,
which has one of the biggest organ of Transylvania, the Miko fortress of
Miercurea Ciuc built in 1611 hosts the Ethnographical Museum of the county,
St. Ilie Monastery of Toplita built in 1910, the castle and complex of museum
of Lazarea built towards the middle of the 16th century, the wood church
of Tulghes built in 1813, the forge from Vlahita (1860), the church from Sacel
on whose steeple it is written "by this place passed the enlightened teacher
Gh. Lazar in 1806", as well as the museums of Odorheiu Secuiesc, Cristuru
Secuiesc and Gheorgheni where still can be seen the marks of the human existence
of these lands from the oldest times.
The natural potential of tourism, very valuable, but not sufficiently
capitalised includes in the present around 2000 mineral water springs, mud,
peat, salt works strongly ozone-aired, rich in aerosols and negative ions,
picturesque natural environment and national reservations.
Arranged potential of tourism contains 194 accommodation units among which
17 hotels, three inns, 149 mentions, 14 huts, 8 camping places and 3 children
camps with 9745 accommodation places, from this point of view County Harghita
is the 6th in the country.
The degree of comfort of these units is very reduced (the majority is
one star hotel) and the degree of attendance is reduced to 25.2% in comparison
with 43.1%, which represents the medium index of the country.
1.10.1. Mountain Tourism and Tourists' Paths
Created by men for economical reasons (shepherding or as a result of the
mountain economy) the paths that cross the mountains became interesting objectives
for those who love nature and for those who want to admire the beauty of
a mountain landscape.
What is that makes us to feel such a great sympathy for certain paths?
The mountain isn't anything else but a huge field sorrowed by stones, rocks
forests, bushes the values of which are the one we want to award and on this
always virgin stuff everyone can model after his own imagination. It doesn't
exist only one kind of tourism but a thousand of other kinds. For some people
"the mountain landscapes represent the essence of a certain aesthetic maybe
even the embodiment of the divinity"; for others the mountains are "a simple
field for practising the favourite sport"; for others "a huge adventure
where they can display their vanity". But for the most people the mountains
represent " a little bit from all these and something more"; one of the
few doors that the adventure opens for the modern world, one of the last
means of escaping from the shell of civilisation for which not everyone
was created.
Because County Harghita has the mountains as prevailing relief it became
compulsory the making of a large network of mountain paths, which gradually
turned into charming and picturesque tourist roads.
County Harghita owns around 948 km of these kinds of paths that cross
the mountains from the height of 300 m till the height of 2000 m.
The mountains that contain these paths are: the Giurgeului mountains -
6 ruts with a total length of 75 km, Haghimas mountain - 14 ruts with a total
length of 107 km, Harghita Mountains - 10 ruts - 149 km, the Gurghiu Mountains
- 3 ruts - 51 km, The Calimani Mountains - 26 ruts - 566 km
1.11 Sports
Although the present economical and financial situation that characterises
Romania and county Harghita is very difficult still the sport activity of
the county of the year 1999 and the first semester of 2000 - according to
the obtained results - of the gained results can be qualified as good. Although
the geographical position and the county's climate facilitate the winter
sports that hold a prevailing place, special results have been registered
in the category of hall sports.
The sport activity of the county has a rich material bases made up of
248 sportive centres among which the most important are: two covered artificial
skate yards, 55 soccer stadiums, 8 confirmed halls for sport games, one polyvalent
hall, 36 gymnasium sport halls, 9 opened air basketball fields, 34 outdoor
handball fields, 22 tennis fields, 12 sport fields in schools, 5 natural
skate yards, 5 alpine sky passages with drive Systems, one sledge passage,
one natural speed skating passage, one horse base, 8 bowling places, 4 outdoor
swimming pools, 12 sportive hotels.
Great successes were obtained during the last years both at senior and
at youth, junior in the following branches: ice hockey, grass hockey, judo,
fund sky, biatron, alpine sky, sledge, martial arts, free fights, Greek -
roman fights, artistic skating, table tennis, gymnastics and chess.
In 1999, 111 sportsmen from Romania were selected for the national teams
among which 22 seniors, 21 youth, 65 juniors and 3 at the kids' category.
Promoting the Council of Harghita County
The Council of County Harghita represents the public local authority constituted
on county level to co-ordinate the activities of the communal and city councils
in order to realise public services of county interest.
Among the main objectives of the Council of the County are the promotions
of the micro-region by supporting these areas and the stimulation of inter-regional,
internal and international co-operation.
The micro-regions are the measure of planning and implementing projects.
In Harghita the process of founding micro-regions has begun with 15 micro-regional
units.
As a part of its activity the Council of County Harghita promotes the
initiation, achievement and support of the co-operation relationships in
different fields of activity with foreign or Romanian legal people, with
non-governmental organisations and with other social partners in order to
support financially and in order to achieve some works or projects of public
interest. The Council of County Harghita has taken part in several projects
of co-operation with foreign partners, financially supported by the funds
coming from the EU.
Along with the partners from the city of Zala from Hungary experience
exchanges had been organised and as a result of the former the micro-regional
managers from the city of Harghita benefited of professional training, training
that had helped in the achievement of the projects of development of the
micro-regions.
In order to establish some priorities in the process of taking measures
regarding the regional development, the SWOT analyses of the city has been
made.
In the future an extremely important role will be granted to the facilitation
of taking the norms and regulation stipulated in the communitary notification
in different fields of special interest (environment protection quality standards,
agriculture and rural development).
The county council of Harghita has settled as main priorities in the field
of regional development the following ones:
- the development of the infra-structure of the places and that of the
social services;
- the development of the agriculture and that of the rural area (the development
of the micro-regions);
- the development of the industry, that of the IMMs and the conditions
of business;
- the development of the human resources;
- the development of the tourism, the conservation of the environment
and that of the national heritage.
An extremely important role it is given to the development of the human
resources in achieving all the priorities because the good professional
training contributes to the entire development of the city.
Nowadays, the project for supplying water in the countryside in the city
of Harghita is being relalised under the co-ordination of the Council of
County Harghita. The project contains 58 places of 14 communes.
The Council of County Harghita owns an extended system of networks, an
institutional environment for permanent development and it is regarded in
Romania as an innovative and competent institution.
Zsombori Vilmos
Council of County Harghita
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