1.1.4 End Uses of Wool

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Wool constitutes 5% of the world textile fibre production. Wool's limited supply coupled with its excellent textile performance properties has resulted in wool products being positioned in the luxury end of most markets. The promotional activities of IWS have focused on the "woolmark" and have assisted greatly with enhancing this position in the market place. The "woolmark" is an internationally recognised registered trade mark denoting products made from pure new wool, which also meets strict performance criteria.

Owing to the range of sheep breeds and wool types produced wool is processed into an equally wide range of end products. End uses of wool is determined by the main fibre characteristics. These include fibre diameter, fibre length/strength, colour and handle, plus others such as lustre, bulk, presence of faults like vegetable matter and the level of felting.

The two major end uses for wool are apparel products and carpets (both machine made and hand-knotted).

The three systems for making wool yarns are:

r Woollen (condenser spun)
r Semi-worsted, or
r Worsted.

The following table provides a general indication of the end uses of wool based on fibre diameter.

Diagram 1.1 End use of wool

Diagram 1.1  End use of wool

The consumption of wool by end use in the six main markets (France, Germany, Italy, Japan, UK and USA) for 1992:

  Million kg
Menswear 101.1
Womenswear 150.1
Knitwear 89.7
Other Apparel 73.7
Carpets 165.9
Other Interior Textiles 70.6
Total 651.1

There are however, a vast number of other products made from wool and a few of the more interesting ones include:

r Mattress and furniture stuffings
r Tennis ball covers
r Piano hammers
r Insulation
r Felt hats and toys

1.2 Goats

1.2.1 Mohair

1.2.1.1 Introduction to Mohair

Somewhat confusingly, mohair comes from the angora goat, a species indigenous to Turkey but said to have originated in the mountains of Tibet - although its true origins are subject to speculation. The evidence, however, suggests that angora goats arrived in Turkey by way of Palestine and the desert regions further north. The breed is thought to be at least 3,000 years old, and there is little doubt that for many centuries these unusually frail and beautiful creatures have been highly prized.

The breed takes its name from Angora in Turkey, better known today as Ankara. The hair of the goat - which is white, long and very fine and silky - is called "mohair" which is a corruption of the ancient Arabic word "mukhyar" meaning the "best of selected fleece". It was noted for its softness, brightness and receptiveness to rich dyes.

Today, the best raw material comes from South Africa where there are strict guidelines and standards, and the industry is well organised. The focus in breeding programmes is to obtain goats that produce less kemp fibre.

Despite its historic connections with mohair, Turkish mohair production lags behind the industries in South Africa and Texas. Turkish quality control leaves much to be desired by modern standards and Turkish fleeces are considered too kempy. The amount of mohair obtained per goat is much lower than South African and Texan goats, as animals raised in Turkey are shorn only once a year.

Australia currently contributes 4 per cent and New Zealand only 2 per cent of world mohair production, although the fibre produced is more lustrous than that obtained in more arid climates. It is also reported that genetic breeding programmes in Australasia are resulting in a dramatic reduction in the level of kemp.

Angora goats are not a sturdy breed and thrive best under certain conditions. The angora goat's demands are exact: they thrive at altitude in a warm, dry climate. If exposed to cold or wet, they may die of pneumonia, and this provides a sharp contrast to the much hardier cashmere goat.

The best fleece is produced in high altitude where the animals can forage for a variety of shrubs and aromatic plants. It is important for the goats to lead an active life, constantly on the move.

More attention must be paid to the fragile angora goat than to any other livestock. The amount of mohair that the angora goat produces (unlike the cashmere goat) is mainly dependent on the nutritive value of its feed, rather than upon seasonal or climatic effects, although mohair production obviously falls during drought periods.

1.2.1.2 Production of Mohair

Mohair accounts for only 0.1 per cent of world natural fibre production. Annual world mohair production amounts to 15 thousand tonnes compared with 15 thousand tonnes of cotton and 1.7 million tonnes of wool. The major producers are Southern Africa (South Africa and Lesotho), followed by the USA (Texas), Turkey, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand. Australian and New Zealand production is still very small as breeders in both countries are trying to develop a breed of angora goat suitable for their particular environment, but it is hoped that production will expand. Small amounts of mohair are also produced in Zimbabwe; by the Navajo Indians in Arizona, USA and Mexico; and on many small angora goat farm operations in the UK, Spain and France. However, the quantities from these sources are negligible compared with the major producing countries.

The latest figures suggest that the total production of mohair in 1993 was 14.95 thousand tonnes.

Table 1.3 World mohair production by main producing countries
(thousand tonnes)

YEAR

SOUTH
AFRICA

F
USA

F
TURKEY

F
ARGENTINA

F
LESOTHO

F
AUSTRALIA

NEW
ZEALAND

MISC
PRODUCTION

F
TOTAL

1970

4.1

7.8

4.1

1.1

0.9

-

-

-

18.0

1971

4.3

6.8

4.5

1.0

0.9

-

-

-

17.5

1972

3.7

4.6

4.1

1.0

0.8

-

-

-

14.2

1973

3.4

4.5

4.1

1.0

0.6

-

-

-

13.6

1974

3.7

3.8

4.1

1.0.

0.6

-

-

-

13.2

1975

3.8

3.9

3.9

1.0

0.6

-

-

-

13.2

1976

4.1

3.6

4.0

1.0

0.6

-

-

-

13.3

1977

4.5

3.6

4.1

1.0

0.4

-

-

-

13.6

1978

4.9

3.7

4.5

1.0

0.5

-

-

-

14.6

1979

5.4

4.2

4.5

1.0

0.5

-

-

-

15.6

1980

6.1

4.0

4.5

1.0

0.5

-

-

-

16.1

1981

6.9

4.5

4.5

1.0

0.5

-

-

-

17.4

1982

7.6

4.5

4.5

1.0

0.5

-

-

-

18.1

1983

7.5

4.8

4.5

1.3

0.67

-

-

-

18.77

1984

8.1

5.1

3.5

1.0

0.75

0.5

0.05

0.05

19.05

1985

9.1

5.4

3.5

1.1

0.8

0.5

0.07

0.06

20.53

1986

11.0

5.6

3.5

1.25

0.8

0.6

0.14

0.07

22.26

1987

12.0

6.8

3.5

1.5

0.8

0.8

0.25

0.08

25.73

1988

12.5

7.0

3.0

1.5

0.6

1.0

0.35

0.1

25.95

1989

11.6

6.8

2.0

1.2

0.6

1.0

0.5

0.2

23.9

1990

10.8

6.8

1.8

1.0

0.5

1.0

0.5

0.2

22.6

1991

7.6

6.8

1.5

0.8

0.5

0.6

0.4

-

18.2

1992

6.7

6.8

1.2

0.6

0.5

0.5

0.3

-

16.6

1993*

5.8

6.6

1.0

0.5

0.4

0.5

0.15

-

14.95

Source: International Mohair Association

1.2.1.3 Fibre Characteristics of Mohair

The Mohair fleece of the angora goat is white, smooth and lustrous and has a high tensile strength. The smooth lustrous appearance is caused by the flat, overlapping scales covering the fibre. Although mohair - like wool - consists of the protein keratin, it nevertheless differs from wool in certain respects. The cross-section of wool is slightly elliptical, whereas the very fine mohair fibre is round. The scales are larger than wool and lie flatter, making a smoother fibre surface. The resultant greater reflection of light gives mohair its characteristic lustre.

The value of a fleece is determined by fibre diameter, lustre, softness, freedom or near freedom from kemps, and clean yield. Kemps are short, heavily medullated, coarse fibres. Kemp fibres contain air spaces (medulla) which reduce the effectiveness of dye and in a finished cloth show up as being much lighter in colour than the other fibres. Although in certain end uses kemp can be used to create a special effect, in mohair kemp is undesirable - too much kemp will cause serious problems in spinning and dyeing. The presence of any foreign material in the fleece will affect the quality of the final product and will have to be removed prior to processing, adding to the cost of manufacture. Kemp can be controlled or reduced by genetic selection.

Grading is primarily related to fibre diameter. The age of the goat is probably the most important determinant in the quality and quantity of mohair produced. Fleece production increases from birth and peaks at approximately three or four years of age. The average peak production in South Africa is about 4-5 kg a year for females and 5-6 kg for males. Over the goat's lifespan, the fibre diameter increases from an average of 24 microns for kids up to 46 microns for strong adults. Kids normally produce fibre with a diameter of 24-28 microns at their first shearing, approximately 29-30 at one year, 31-34 at 18 months, and from 36 to 46 microns as adults. Staple length shows little change with age and grows at an average rate of 20-25 mm/month.

The first three shearings produce the most sought-after fibre and subsequently the fibre becomes coarser. Kid mohair fetches the highest price but only represents 16 per cent of the clip.

1.2.1.4 End Uses of Mohair

Mohair is a lustrous fibre with a silky, luxurious appearance but it is also very hard wearing. One of the advantages of this fibre is its tremendous versatility. It can be used both for clothing and furnishing and, within these, its end uses are wide ranging. Individual fibres are strong and make a finished fabric that is non-crushable, soil resistant and does not pill. Mohair has an affinity for dyes and is able to absorb them completely and indelibly. It provides warmth during the winter months but also makes a cool suiting fabric for the humidity of summer, hence its popularity in the Far East, particularly Japan.

Mohair is used to manufacture many products - including knitting yarn for hand or machine knitwear, lightweight suitings, fabric for stoles, scarves and warm blankets and durable upholstery velours. It is often blended with wool for top quality blankets where the mohair content makes the fabric warmer, and at the same time lighter.

About 12 per cent of total mohair production goes into furnishing fabrics, such as upholstery velours and moquettes. Such fabrics are often used for upholstery, particularly in prestige locations - including the first class areas of ships such as the QE2. Mohair upholstery velours are chosen because, although expensive, the fabric is extremely hard wearing and easy to clean while creating a feeling of quality.

One of the challenges facing the mohair industry - particularly the knitting sector - is that the fibre has been imitated by much cheaper acrylic yarns, developed to have similar properties and described as "mohair-like". These products are seen to have done genuine mohair a disservice, adulterating its high quality image.

1.2.2 Cashmere

1.2.2.1 Introduction to Cashmere

The appeal of cashmere and its unrivalled status as a luxury fibre hinges on three key factors:

r its visual appeal and its extreme softness;
r its scarcity, and
r its image or mystique.

As a luxury fibre, Cashmere commands some of the highest prices in the world of textiles. Only vicuna and musk ox - neither of which is available in anything approaching commercial quantities - achieve higher prices than cashmere. Another key feature of its attraction is its scarcity in comparison with other well known fibres, both natural and man-made. The uncertainty and speculation which surround the production and availability of cashmere have increased its appeal, sometimes sending prices soaring upwards. Also, the geographical remoteness of cashmere production, the dependence on manual skills in the early stages of processing and the fibre's association with exotic peoples following a traditional rural way of life add to the attraction of cashmere fibre in highly industrialised western urban markets.

Cashmere is one of the alternative - and lesser used - spellings of Kashmir, a region, partly in India and partly in Pakistan, in the western Himalayas. This wild and mountainous area gave its name to the fine soft goat's wool, or down, which first came to the West in the form of intricately woven cashmere shawls. In fact the fibre came not from Kashmir but from Tibet where it was gathered by herdsmen from their goats during the animals' spring moult. Cashmere fibre took its name from Kashmir as it was there that it was spun, woven and sold as a finished item. Today in Kashmir and Tibet - where the fibre is still produced and processed by hand - it is known locally as pashmina.

1.2.2.2 Production of Cashmere

Detailed information on cashmere production, particularly that in China, is not easy to obtain. Accurate figures on national cashmere production are difficult - if not impossible - to acquire. One source of information is the IWS China Branch which estimates that in 1988 there were 67 million goats in China, of which 40 million were producing cashmere.

However, in 1988, world production of cashmere was estimated at about 5,000 tonnes. This compares with an annual availability of wool in the same year of 1.8 million tonnes. World cashmere production is thought to have declined since then.

Estimates of the volume of cashmere produced in China, Mongolia, Iran and Afghanistan vary considerably. An estimate of current world production of cashmere raw material is 4,500 tonnes, which represents a 10 per cent decline from a figure quoted in 1987 of 5,000 tonnes.

China itself produces roughly 60 per cent of the total volume of raw cashmere, with Inner Mongolia contributing up to 70 per cent of this amount. The remainder is thought to be split roughly equally between Mongolia (20-25 per cent) and Iran and Afghanistan (20-25 per cent). Iranian and Afghan cashmere is of a lower quality to the cashmere from China and is spun into yarn principally for woven cloth.

As well as being by far the world's largest supplier, China produces the best quality cashmere. The Chinese claim that the very finest cashmere is produced north of the 40th parallel in Inner Mongolia (north of the Yangtse River).

1.2.2.3 Fibre Characteristics of Cashmere

Chinese cashmere has a fibre diameter of between 12.5 and 16.0 microns. A diameter of 15.5 microns is considered a standard for cashmere. The longer the fibre the better the quality. The Chinese Commodity Inspection Bureau (CCIB) specifies that the hair should be longer than 32 mm. A fibre length of 46 mm is considered long.

White breeds are most desirable, as white down commands the best prices. White fibre is preferred since it is easiest to dye, producing the purest colours. This is particularly important for cashmere knitwear where soft pastel shades are perennial favourites. Cross-breeding can result in undesirable coloured fibre.

Cashmere produced in Mongolia is generally slightly coarser, between 16.0 and 17.5 microns, but longer. It is used in knitwear and weaving. Cashmere produced in Iran and Afghanistan has a diameter of 17-21 microns and is chiefly used for weaving.

1.2.2.4 End Uses of Cashmere

The knitwear industry is the largest consumer of cashmere. Traditionally, Scotland has been the home of the cashmere knitwear industry, producing collections known to prestigious markets all over the world. Many knitwear producers use cashmere from time to time, often using blended yarns. Few specialise in 100 per cent cashmere knitwear, however. The Scottish knitters still constitute one of the biggest markets for cashmere fibre outside China.

The weaving sector is a smaller consumer of cashmere than is the knitwear industry. Nevertheless, significant amounts of cashmere go into accessories (scarves, shawls, stoles), rugs (especially travel rugs and "throws") and cloth for luxury coats, jackets and suits for the menswear trade.

The hair which is removed from the down in the debarring process is used in carpets, underfelts, and interlinings for men's suits and jackets.

1.3 Camel

1.3.1 Introduction to Camel Hair

The Camelus is part of the Camelidae Gray family, as is the South American Auckenidi (which includes Llama, alpaca, vicuna and guanaco). The Camelus is made up of two sub-species: the one humped and the two humped.

The one humped dromedary or Arabian camel is found throughout Africa, Arabia, the Near East and, to a lesser extent, in other areas of Asia. It was imported into the Canary Islands, Spain, the former USSR, and to various Central and South American countries and Australia, where it adapted to local conditions.

The two humped species, known as the Bactrian camel, is bred in Eastern and Central Asia. Surviving in extremely cold climates, the Bactrian camel has been used throughout history by the Tartars, the Mongols and the Chinese. It is not a particularly intelligent animal, having a difficult and capricious character. Both species are used as pack animals, for riding, and sometimes for sport. Camel hair raw material is largely obtained from the double humped Bactrian camel.

The double humped camel is bred mainly in the northern areas of China and Mongolia. In Inner Mongolia (China) breeding areas are concentrated in Alxa Megn prefecture, bordering on the Gobi Desert and in Mongolia. This is an area where the predominantly desert conditions yield only shrubs, on which camels alone can survive. In Mongolia most camels are raised in the Gobi Desert which makes up the southern third of the country. Over half the camel hair produced by China comes from Inner Mongolia, with the remainder from Xinjiang, Gansu, Qinghai and Ningxia. Some camel hair also comes from Afghanistan and Iran, but this is generally of an inferior quality.

1.3.2 Production of Camel Hair

Details on the production of camel hair are very limited.

In 1987, China recorded national production of 1800 tonnes of camel hair, of which 56% came from Inner Mongolia. In this same period, China exported 546 tonnes.

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