HARVESTING OF TEXTILE ANIMAL FIBRES
by
O J Petrie
Wool Testing Authority
Wellington, New Zealand
FAO AGRICULTURAL SERVICES BULLETIN No. 122
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Rome 1995
The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion what so ever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
M-25
ISBN 92-5-103759-0
Permission to make digital or hard copies of part or all of this work for personal or classroom use is hereby granted without fee and without a formal request provided that copies are not made or distributed for profit or commercial advantage and that copies bear this notice and full citation on the first page. Copyright for components of this work owned by others than FAO must be honoured. To copy otherwise, to republish, to post on servers, or to redistribute to lists, requires prior specific permission and/or fee.
Request permission to publish from:
The Chief Editor,
CHAPTER 1. TEXTILE FIBRE PRDUCING ANIMALS
1.1 Sheep
1.1.1
Introduction to Sheep & Wool
1.1.2 Sheep
& Wool Production
1.1.3 Fibre Characteristics
of Wool
1.1.4 End Uses of
Wool
1.2 Goats
1.2.1 Mohair
1.2.1.1
Introduction to Mohair
1.2.1.2
Production of Mohair
1.2.1.3
Fibre Characteristics of Mohair
1.2.1.4
End Uses of Mohair
1.2.2 Cashmere
1.2.2.1
Introduction to Cashmere
1.2.2.2
Production of Cashmere
1.2.2.3
Fibre Characteristics of Cashmere
1.2.2.4
End Uses of Cashmere 22
1.3 Camel
1.3.1 Introduction
to Camel Hair
1.3.2 Production
of Camel Hair
1.3.3 Fibre Characteristics
of Camel Hair
1.3.4 End Uses of
Camel Hair
1.4 Llama
1.4.1 Introduction
to the Llama
1.4.2 Production
of Alpaca Fibre
1.4.3 Fibre Characteristics
of Alpaca
1.4.4 End Uses of
Alpaca
1.5 Angora Rabbit
1.5.1 Introduction
to the Angora Rabbit
1.5.2 Production
of Angora Fibre
1.5.3 Fibre Characteristics
of Angora
1.5.4 End Uses of
Angora
1.6 Yak
1.6.1 Introduction
to the Yak
1.6.2 Production
of Yak Hair
1.6.3 Fibre Characteristics
of Yak Hair
1.6.4 End Use of
Yak Hair
1.7 Beaver
1.8 Weasel
CHAPTER 2. PREPARING ANIMALS FOR SHEARING
2.1 Preparing Sheep for Shearing
2.2 Preparing Angora Goats for Shearing
2.3 Preparing Alpaca for Shearing
2.4 Preparing Cashmere, Camels & Yaks for Shearing
2.5 Preparing Angora Rabbits for Shearing
CHAPTER 3. FIBRE HARVESTING EQUIPMENT
3.1 Machine Shears
3.1.1 The
Shearing Stand
3.1.2 The Dropper
3.1.3 The Handpiece
3.1.4 Combs and
Cutters
3.2 Hand Shears (Blades)
3.3 Combs
3.3.1 Combs
- Cashmere
3.3.2 The Mongolian
Yak Comb
CHAPTER 4. FIBRE HARVESTING TECHNIQUES
4.1 The New Zealand Wool
Board Shearing Pattern
4.1.1 Machine
Shearing Merino Sheep
4.1.2 Machine Shearing
Crossbred Sheep
4.1.3 Machine Shearing
Angora Rabbits
4.1.3.1
Method
4.1.4 Machine Shearing
Llamas
4.1.5 Blade Shearing
Sheep
4.1.6 Crutching
Sheep
4.2 Combing
4.2.1 Combing
Cashmere Goats
4.2.2 Combing Yaks
4.3 Plucking Angora Rabbits
4.4 Slipe Wool Production
4.4.1 The
Production System
4.4.2 Sheep Wash
4.4.3 Skin Wash
4.4.4 Wringing
4.4.5 Trimming and
Spreading
4.4.6 Painting
4.4.7 Pairing
4.4.8 Storing
4.4.9 [Pulling and
Grading]
4.4.10 Drying
4.4.11 Binning
4.4.12 Pressing
4.4.13 Elaboration
of Specified [] Process
4.4.14 Slipemaster
Process (for skin pieces)
4.4.15 The "Paint"
4.4.16 Painting
4.4.17 Alternative
Paint Mixtures
4.4.18 A Non-Paint
Alternative
4.4.19 Pulling
and Grading
4.4.20 Machine
Pulling
4.4.21 Pie Wool
(Sweating)
4.4.22 Grading
4.4.23 Fehrer Wash
4.4.24 Pelt House
Procedure
CHAPTER 5. FIBRE PREPARATION FOR SALE OR PROCESSING
5.1 Objectives
5.2 General Requirements
5.3 Preparation
5.3.1 Preparing
Wool
5.3.1.1
On the Shearing Board
5.3.1.2
Skirting Annually Shorn Fleeces
5.3.1.3
Classing Apparel Wool (Merino/Corriedale)
5.3.1.4
Grading Annually Shorn Coarse Wool
5.3.1.5
Wools Shorn at 3-9 Month Intervals
5.3.1.6
Merchant/Factory Sorting & Grading
5.3.2.1 Preparing
Mohair
5.3.2.2
Preparing Cashmere
5.3.2.3
Preparing Camel Hair
5.3.2.4
Preparing Alpaca
5.3.2.5
Preparing Angora
5.3.2.6
Preparing Yak Hair
CHAPTER 6. HARVESTING EQUIPMENT, PREPARATION & MAINTENANCE
6.1 Machine Shears
6.1.1 Harvesting
Equipment
6.1.1.1
Setting Up The Handpiece
6.1.1.2
Lubrication
6.1.1.3
Fault Finding
6.1.1.4
Replacing Parts
6.1.1.5
Safety Tips
6.1.1.6
The Spline Drive/Pin Option
6.1.1.7
Dressing a New Comb
6.1.1.8
Grinding
6.1.1.9
Grinding Procedure
6.1.1.10
Grinding Equipment
6.2 Hand Shears (Blades)
6.2.1 Pulling
Back (for separating the blades)
6.2.2 Adjustment
6.2.3 Setting
6.2.4 The Grindstone
6.2.5 Grinding The
Blades
6.2.6 Grinding with
a Bat
6.2.7 The Oilstone
6.2.8 Sharpening
6.2.9 Spring Tension
6.2.10 The Driver
CHAPTER 7. PACKAGING OF ANIMAL FIBRES
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Essential Requirements
7.3 Packaging Materials