9. 13.12 Lipsticks and glosses

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In general, lipsticks are composed of variable proportions of the following ingredients (in parts by weight):

The waxes, alcohols and oil are mixed together one after the other into the melted beeswax, at a temperature of about 70⁰C. Depending on the pigments and antioxidants used, they' can be added at this stage (hot) or once the mix has cooled. The pigments may have to be premixed in the castor oil. Pe~mes are added at approximately 40⁰C or before the mass becomes too viscous. The final mix is poured into forms, or extruded for large scale production.

Both formulations are after Proserpio (1981). If the sweetener is honey, its quantity should be increased. Melt the ingredients and mix them well. Pour into forms before hardening. This is a more protective type of lipstick (rather than a fashion, coloured one) but some pigments or a Uvfilter can be added.

Simple lipstick

* optional

Melt the wax and stir in the other products. If so desired, pigments can be predispersed in the liquid paraffin and essential oils and honey should only be added below 50⁰C. Pour into the moulds when almost cool. Once hardened, place into the lipstick holders and pass the tip quickly through a low flame to give it a glossy finish.

Protective lipstick

Heat wax in a water bath (70 – 75°C) add other ingredients and mix well. Before hardening, add aromatic oil and pour into forms. Sweetner can be honey and, for some applications, a UVfilter and some pigments can be added as well.

Moisturizing lipstick

Heat the ingredients listed under A and mix until clear. Add premixed B and mix well. Adjust the temperature to 60⁰C and add C. Pour into moulds. This formulation makes an elegant glossy lipstick, which spreads easily and conditions the lips.

Anhydrous (waterless) lip ointment

Mix like any other ointment.

Lucid lip ointment

A very simple lip gloss can be made by melting 12 parts of cocoa butter with 1 part beeswax (Krochmal, 1973).

Tinted lip gloss

Melt the wax over a low heat in a water bath and stir in the carmine. Gradually add the almond oil and the oil of rose

Depilatory waxes are made using various proportions of resins, beeswax and oils. To obtain a low melting point near 40 to 45 ⁰C, honey is sometimes included. No other ingredients are essential for this mixture. The liquified waxes are applied in a thin film on the skin and covered with a strip of muslin cloth pressed firmly to the skin. When cooled, the skin is pulled taut and the cloth strip is pulled against the direction of hair growth.

A French patent describes aromatic oils and resins added to beeswax as analgesics or perfumes and triethanolamine as an emulsifier. The final mixture is spread on a siliconized paper. According to Anon (1965) it consists of the following (in parts by weight):

Depilatory cream

9.13 14 Shaving preparations

Shaving cream (o/w)

Dissolve all the ingredients completely in the alcohol and dilute with the water, mixing thoroughly. Leave to stand for 1 to 2 days with adequate chilling or 1 week without chilling, then filter to clear and bottle.

After shave cream (o/w)

Heat the first three ingredients together to 70^°C. In another vessel dissolve the next four ingredients in water and heat to 70°C. Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase with good agitation and continue stirring while cooling. Add the fragrances, at or below 40°C. Continue stirring slowly until the mix reaches 25°C. Bottle after 24 hours.

After shave gel

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