How ecochefs support small-scale agroecological producers in Brazil
In Rio de Janeiro (Brazil), there is a generation of chefs that promote sustainable agriculture through a link between smallholders and gastronomy. In 2007 they founded the Instituto Maniva, a nonprofit organization whose goal is to connect the two separate worlds of consumption and production. They started visiting different farmers at their land, not only to find new kinds of vegetable or fruits but also to understand the farmers’ needs, the challenges they face and the details about their work.
Claudino is one of these farmers, whose history is told here. He belongs to Agroprata (Association of Organic Farmers of Pedra Branca) an organization of traditional farmers in the Rio de Janeiro. The only day he leaves his fruit trees behind is Tuesday, when he goes down to the Farmers Market at Ipanema, the wealthiest neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Apart from finding a good place to sell their organic certified khakis and bananas, the farmers from Agroprata now found new friends, other farmers, from all parts of Rio de Janeiro State. In addition, they began a personal relationship with the consumers that went every week to the market, looking eagerly for those special products and recognizing the farmers’ dedication and work. For many of these consumers, it was the very first time they saw and could talk directly to a farmer.
Through the recognition of Claudino and his peer work, ecochefs helped to enhance culture and food traditions, promote circular economy and the co-creation of knowledge. One example of the fruitful collaboration is the successful elaboration of khaki vinegar made by Claudino. The vinegar passed through chemistry labs, university of agronomy, cooking schools to arrive at the hands of the most awarded cooks at most prestigious restaurants in Rio. The product from the forest made the magic path between farmers, chefs and consumers. This story shows how family farmers could also be innovators, if they have the right opportunities and support.
Claudino Avelino da Costa in the forest of bananas and caquis. Photo by: Bel Corção