Corpulent, thick-lipped, with eyes set off as if by smudged mascara. Head like a delicately patterned anvil. Body a shimmering blue.
The sumptuous and the comical fight it out in this creature’s looks. Known prosaically as the humphead wrasse, and more majestically as the Napoleon, the fish may appear either stunning or endearingly misshapen. Still: neither its intriguing appearance, nor its role in sustaining marine ecosystems (it preys on toxic sea animals and maintains the health of the coral reef) has kept the Napoleon safe.
The fish peaks late and breeds sparsely. It takes years to reach market size. And when it does, the market is unforgiving. A rampant appetite for what is seen as a culinary delicacy in East Asia has badly dented stocks.
By 2004, CITES had recognized the fish as requiring trade controls. Indonesia, one of its main habitats, has legislated to deter smuggling. But with law enforcement patchy and a single kilo of Napoleon fetching up to USD 850, this turquoise-hued wonder could soon become the rarest of sights.
Enter capture-based aquaculture, or CBA. Traditional CBA is simple enough: youngish fish born in the wild are caught, then transferred to farms for growing in controlled conditions. Once they reach market size, the fish are sold for human consumption.
The technique is commonly associated with bluefin tuna, commercially caught and fattened to serve the restaurant sector. Alternatively, it is applied to low-value species, where the fish stays local to improve the diet of impoverished communities.
In parts of Indonesia, a novel version of CBA has organically emerged. It involves island communities collecting the Napoleon not just young, but almost at larval stage, when mortality rates are naturally high. Left to its own devices, the Napoleon has a poor record of staying alive: even in unfished areas, adult population density can be as low as two per 10 000 square metres of reef.
“They say you shouldn’t fish a fish until it’s spawned at least once. The novel type of fishing in Indonesia turns the logic on its head: it removes individuals at the point when they’d be very, very likely to die in the wild – and grows them out instead,” says Kim Friedman, an FAO marine scientist who specializes in rebuilding depleted stocks.