HOW LARGE SHOULD YOUR POND BE?
(48) It is good to start with a pond greater than 300 square
metres. Such a pond will produce enough fish for food. It will
also produce fish for sales and additional cash income.
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(49) For example, if you build a pond 20 by 20 metres,
the pond will measure 400 square metres.
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(50) A square or rectangular pond is easiest to build,
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but your pond can have a different shape to fit
the size and shape of your land.
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HOW TO BUILD A 20 BY 20 METRE POND
(51) First mark out a big square on the site you have chosen,
about 26 by 26 metres. Mark the corners with pegs and run a string
between the pegs to show where the outside of the banks will be.
(52) Clear the big square
of all trees, bushes and grass and take away as many big roots
as you can.
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(53) Take away about 20 centimetres of topsoil
from all over the square. Put the topsoil aside. Later you will
put it back on the top and outer sides of the banks.

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(54) Now mark out a smaller square inside the big square, about
20 by 20 metres. Mark the corners with pegs and run a string between
the pegs to show where the inside of the banks will be.

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(55) The bottom of the bank in the shallow part of your pond
and along the sides should be about 1 metre from the upper end
and sides of the small square.
(56) The bottom of the bank in the deepest part of your pond
should be about 2 metres from the lower end of the small square.
(57) Now mark out a third smaller area in the centre of your
pond, about 17 by 18 metres. We will call this the central area.
Mark the corners with pegs and run a string between the pegs to
show where the bottom of the banks will be.
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(58) Be sure that all the pegs and strings marking the 26 by
26 metre square, the 20 by 20 metre square and the central area
are set up as shown in the drawings.
(59) Now you are ready to begin digging out soil from inside
the central area to build the banks of your pond.
(60) Ask your neighbours to help you dig your big pond. Then
you can help them dig their ponds in turn.
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| (61) Shared work is lighter work. When
we work together with our neighbours, the work is easier and faster.
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(62) Begin digging inside the central square at the upper end
of your pond. Dig about 20 centimetres deep. As you dig towards
the lower end, dig a little deeper. When you get to the deepest
part, at the 2-metre string marking the central area, you should
be digging about 30 centimetres deep.
(63) As you dig out the soil, put it between the lines marking
the 20 by 20 metre square and the 26 by 26 metre square, where
the banks will be. Put it nearest to where you are digging. This
way, the banks will be higher and wider as you move toward the
lower end.
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(64) When you come to roots, take away as much of them as you
can and put them aside.
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(65) Whenever the loose soil you put on the banks
reaches half as high as your knees, pack it down tightly. You
can do this by beating the soil with a heavy plank, a length of
tree trunk or an earth tamper.
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| (66) When you are digging, keep the slope
of the pond bottom as regular as you can. It should slope gently
down from the upper end to the deepest part. The bottom of the pond
should have slopes like those in the drawings. |
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(67) Begin again to dig soil out of the
central area. Dig 20 more centimetres from the upper end and 30
more centimetres from the deepest part. Put the soil on the banks
and pack it down tightly as before. |
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(68) Now begin again, for the third and last time, to dig soil
out of the central area. Dig 20 more centimetres from the upper
end and 30 more centimetres from the deepest part. Put the soil
on the banks and pack it down tightly.
(69) When you have finished digging out the central area and
you have put on the banks all the soil that you have taken out,
you will have a hole 17 by 18 metres with straight sides. Now
it is time to shape the banks.
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(70) Dig the soil away from the edges of the central
area to form the slope of the banks. Put this soil on top of the
banks and pack it down tightly.
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(71) The inside of the banks should slope less steeply
than the outside. The drawing shows you what the banks should
look like when they are finished.
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(72) The top of the banks should be about 1.5 metres
wide and should be straight and flat all the way around the pond.
(75) Be sure that the bottom of the pond is fairly smooth and
regular.
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(73) Get the 20 centimetres of topsoil you took
away when you began digging and put it on the top and outer sides
of the banks. Plant grass on the banks. Banks covered with grass
last longer.
(74) The bottom of your pond should be about 1.1
metres (110 centimetres) from the top of the banks at the shallow
upper end and about 1.4 metres (140 centimetres) from the top
of the banks at the deepest part.
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(76) Now dig a ditch in the bottom of the pond from the centre
to the lower end. The ditch should be about 50 centimetres wide
and about 20 centimetres deep. This ditch will help you drain
out all the water when you empty your pond.
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(77) When the ditch is finished, remove all loose soil and other
trash from the bottom of the pond.
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(78) If you want a still bigger pond, you can build one of 20 by
30 metres, 20 by 50 metres or even 30 by 50 metres. The banks of
ponds this size should also be 1.5 metres wide at the top, but because
these ponds are bigger and deeper and hold much more water, the
banks should be stronger at the bottom than the banks you built
for your smaller ponds.
(79) Since you will be digging bigger and deeper ponds, you will
take out more soil. Put all the soil you dig out on the lower part
of the banks. This will make them thicker and stronger.
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(80) The drawing below shows you what the banks
should look like when you are finished.
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(81) However, if you build ponds of this size, you
should build them a little deeper. They should be at least 0.75
metres (75 centimetres) deep at the shallow end and at least 1
to 1.2 metres deep at the deepest part.
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(82) If you live in a place where the temperature
falls below 20°C, make your ponds 1.5 to 1.8 metres deep. The
water will be warmer in the deepest part and your fish can go
there during the colder part of each day.
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Note: When ponds are side by side,
you will need only one bank between two ponds. If you are building
two ponds side by side at the same time, you can make the top
of the bank between them 1 metre wide instead of 1.5 metres.
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Summary
YOU HAVE LEARNED HOW TO BUILD YOUR FISH PONDS
The pond should
- be greater than 300 m2 to produce fish for food and cash
- have a square or rectangular shape
- be shallow, with water depth from 60 cm (upper end) to 90 cm (lower
end)
The banks should
- be 50 cm higher than the water on top
- have a good slope on the sides
- be built with soil tightly packed
Build your pond in successive steps:
- clear all vegetation, rocks, etc. from the area
- remove the top soil and keep it aside
- mark the limits of the inside banks at ground level
- mark the limits of the inside banks at bottom level
- dig inside these last limits by layers of 20 cm (upper end) to 30
cm (lower end)
- use this soil to build up the banks, layer by layer and tightly packed
- form the inside slopes of the banks
- form the outside slopes of the banks
- add topsoil on top and on the outside slopes of the banks
- inside the pond, dig a small draining ditch

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