Coffee may be grown from seed or from cloned plants in the form of cuttings, grafts or tissue cultured plants. Arabica coffee is most commonly grown from selected seed unless there are special reasons for using clones. A number of steps are necessary for production of good seedlings.
Select the seed.
Keep records.
When to start the nursery.
Calculate the amount of seed needed and the area required.
Build nursery shelter and seedbeds.
Plant the seed.
Arabica coffee should be grown from fresh seed of the recommended varieties. Seed loses viability within three months and should not be used after that period unless properly stored at low temperature and high humidity.
Select ripe healthy fruit from the required variety and from plants that have good productivity, low or no incidence of rust and good cup quality. Pulp cherries, ferment for one night, wash clean, and dry the parchment slowly in shade on raised platforms or trays with good air movement for two to three days. The moisture content of the seeds should not fall below 10%, otherwise the viability will be seriously affected. The seeds should be sorted to eliminate those that are small or abnormally shaped or are infested with pests.
NOTE: Coffee seed that is used for planting is actually parchment with the parchment hull still in place. It is not green bean from which parchment hull has been removed.
It is very important to keep good records of nursery operations. Good records will help avoid confusion and problems. The sample record on the next page can be photocopied for practical use.
Record the information for each new plot of coffee or shade tree planted. This page may be photocopied.
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Coffee |
Coffee |
Shade tree # |
Crop |
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Cultivar |
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Scientific name |
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Origin of material |
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Date sown |
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Treatments (if any) |
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Date of seed emergence |
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Date of transplanting |
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Growth stage at transplanting |
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Other information / comments |
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New seed should be planted as soon as possible after harvest. The longer it is stored, the lower the percentage of germination and the smaller the plants will be at the time of transplanting. If possible, coffee nurseries should be started in December in Lao.
As coffee seed rapidly looses viability, store the seed in cool moist conditions (such as the bottom of a refrigerator). There are 3000 to 4000 coffee seeds per kilo. The recommended planting density is 3333 plants/ ha at a spacing of 2 x 1.5 m for Lao. To calculate the area for a nursery you need to know:
the area to be planted;
plant spacing;
the number of plants per hectare;
how many seeds per kg;
the germination percentage of the seed.
Calculate area needed for seedbed - for example: To plant 1 hectare of coffee at a spacing of 2 x 1.5 m |
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Number of plants: |
3333 plants/h (10,000 m2 ÷ 2 x 1.5 m) |
Germination: |
Assume 3000 seeds/kg with 75% germination |
Therefore, you need: |
(100 x 3000) - 75 = 4,444 seeds |
Sow seeds in beds 1 m wide with 2 cm between seeds and 10 cm between rows. Plant 50 seeds per 1 m of row. |
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Therefore, you need: |
4,444 seeds ÷ 50 seeds/row of 1 m = 90 rows |
Rows are 100 mm apart. Therefore, you need 90 rows x 100 mm apart or 9 m of nursery bed. |
Select a frost and flood free area with access to a suitable water supply. Completely fence the area to keep out domestic livestock.
Shade house and plastic tunnels
Coffee seed is very slow to germinate in December and January (the coldest months) and clear plastic/polyethylene should be used to accelerate germination and plant growth. (Coffee seed that is used for planting is actually parchment with the parchment hull still in place. It is not green bean from which parchment hull has been removed). Figure 10 illustrates the stages of coffee seedling development.
Construct a shade house with timber poles and a roof about 1.8 m high. The top of the shade house needs to be covered with either assorted plant material such as bamboo slats or branches, or commercial plastic shade cloth to give about 50% shade.
Figure 8. A clear plastic tunnel covering a seed bed is used for germinating coffee seed in cold weather. Note that the plastic has just been removed from the bamboo frame
To achieve faster seedling growth during cold weather, plant seed in a clear plastic/polyethylene tunnel beneath the shade (Figure 8). The tunnel is the width of sowing beds and about 75 cm high. Use bamboo hoops for the framework to support the polyethylene sheet cover. The seedbed must be fully and tightly enclosed or temperature inside the tunnel will not increase.
Seedbeds
Use wooden planks, bricks or bamboo as sides for seed beds which should be about 20 cm high and 1 m wide. Fill beds with a soil and sand mixture of 50% forest soil and 50% river sand. Red soil by itself is too compact for a good seedbed.
Level the soil to the height of the sides of the seedbed.
Water the seedbed before planting.
Using a pointed stick, make furrows 12 mm deep across the bed and 100 mm apart.
Plant seed flat side down, with seeds 25 mm apart within the row (Figure 9).
Cover seed with soil mixture - seed should be about 12 mm deep after planting.
Cover beds with rice straw mulch to give extra heat and to retain soil moisture (see Figure 9).
Water gently. Make sure the seed is not exposed when watering.
As germination time is highly dependent on soil temperature, it may take from 30 to 50 days before shoots appear. Use of plastic/polythene tunnels to retain heat will speed up germination.
Germination
Germination is induced by placing the seeds in a sufficiently moist environment to absorb water. Depending on temperature and moisture, the cotyledon leaves develop after four to six weeks. See figures 10a and 10b for germinating process.
Germination is first seen in the appearance of the radicle (young root) three to four weeks after sowing. The hypocotyl (the part between soil and cotyledons appears 20 to 25 days later and carries the seed which is still covered in its parchment, out of the ground. Shortly afterwards, when this light covering is detached, the two cotyledon leaves open.
Figure 14. Planting the seed (left) and covering with mulch (right)
Diagram of the germinating process. The last two drawings (in the box) indicate that the plant is ready for transplanting
Figure 10a. Colyledons shown in photograph (top); the new primary leaves appear above the colyledons (bottom photo)
Figure 10b. Three stages showing seedling ready for transplanting on the
These cotyledon leaves look very different from ordinary leaves - they are oval-shaped with undulating edges and 20 to 50 mm in diameter. At the same time, the terminal bud appears and produces two primary leaves - they are opposite and in pairs. The cotyledons will now die having completed their nutritional role.
The root system develops actively in the first weeks of germination; the taproot penetrates deeply into the soil and forms a great number of roots and rootlets.
The first lateral branch (plagiotropic branch) appears four to six weeks after emergence; the plant will then have 5 to 11 pairs of leaves. These branches are opposite in pairs at alternate perpendicular points along the main axis. The primary branches have buds at each node that will develop either into secondary (plagiotropic/horizontal) branches or, under certain conditions, into flowers.
Do not let the soil dry out, when seedlings are developing. However, take care and do not over-water as seed can suffer from disease problems such as damping-off (see Nursery diseases and pests). At a height of 200 to 300 mm, the young plants are ready to be transplanted.
Depending on temperature, coffee seedlings are ready to be transplanted from the nursery bed into poly bags about two to three months after sowing. There are four steps in the process.
Prepare the potting mixture.
Choose the seedlings.
Plant seedlings in bags.
Care for the seedlings.
Make a NEW potting mixture. |
Strong black plastic/polyethylene bags with drainage holes should be used. Bag size should be at least 100 mm x 250 mm when filled with soil.
A mixture of fertile topsoil and manure or compost can be used. All soil, manure and compost should be sieved. The following mixture could be used:
Thoroughly mix the ingredients and place in the black plastic bags. This amount will fill about 40 bags. |
Figure 11. Choosing the seedlings at matchstick stage
Transplant coffee when it is at the matchstick or cotyledon (butterfly) stage before the taproot is well developed (Figure 11).
Use the best seedlings with a straight tap root. Discard seedlings with either a bent taproot (J root) or those with few root hairs.
Do not use larger seedlings (with more leaves than the matchstick stage) as these will be too slow in growing.
Do not use diseased seedlings.
Planting should be done in cool, cloudy weather.
Thoroughly water the soil-filled bags to settle the soil before planting.
Lift the seedlings using a stick or trowel to prevent breaking the roots.
Make a hole about 50 mm deep using either a small stick or a finger (Figure 12).
Insert seedling in the hole and then lift the seedling slightly to open out the roots.
When planting, make sure that the taproot is not bent.
Plant seedlings to the same depth as they were previously planted in the seedbed.
Water seedlings well.
Make sure the bags are well supported all around and in between so they do not fall over. Use a bamboo or wooden frame to contain the bags and keep them packed together (Figure 13a).
Figure 12. Planting the seedlings into plastic
Figure 13a. Make sure the plants are supported and are not crowded
Remove weeds regularly.
If soil becomes hard, soften it by using a trowel to break up big, hard clumps of soil into smaller pieces.
Water as required to keep the soil damp. Don't over-water as this can cause damping-off - a disease caused by a fungus that will kill the plants.
At three months, apply urea (46:0:0) at 60 g/10 L of water. This is enough for 100 seedlings. Apply every 15 days. If leaves become dark green, stop the procedure.
If you do not use a chemical fertiliser, apply a small amount of finely crushed dry manure around the plants.
Check seedlings every day to make sure they remain free from pests and disease. Remove bags with diseased, dead or damaged plants.
Continue to keep plants in shade. Two months before field planting, gradually remove the shade to sun-harden the plants.
As the plants grow, separate the poly-bags so there is sufficient space for the developing plant to spread. If bags are not separated, the plants grow tall and weak (Figure 13b).
Figure 13b. Healthy seedlings that are now crowded. The bags should be moved apart to allow more room for plant growth and avoid disease
The two common diseases occurring in the nursery are:
Damping-off that appears as areas of dying plants. (See page 63 of Pests and diseases). Damping-off is caused by a soil-borne fungi often found in old, diseased potting mixture, over-watering, too much shade or not enough space between plants. Damping-off can be avoided by proper preparation in the nursery. It is also important that new soil is always used in the nursery beds. If the disease is found, immediate drenching with either Benlate (Benomyl) or Captan can be carried out. Always read the label on the chemical pack and follow directions.
Cercospora (brown eye spot) is a fungus, which develops when plants are under stress caused by too much shade, too much sun, nitrogen deficiency, over-watering or over-crowding. This can be avoided by following good management practices. Immediate control measures involve using copper sprays. (See page 64 of Pests and diseases). Always read the label on the chemical pack and follow directions.
Green coffee scale can also be a problem in the nursery. Scales severely affect plant health as the they suck the sap from the leaves. Keep the area free from ants and spray with spraying oils or Carbaryl or use traditional methods of control. (See page 59 of Pests and diseases).
Figure 14. Seedlings affected by damping-off. New potting mix should always be used
Always read the label on the chemical pack and follow directions. |