SILK
REELING AND TESTING MANUALSILK
REELING AND TESTING MANUAL
| by |
Yong-woo Lee |
FAO AGRICULTURAL SERVICES BULLETIN No. 136
Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations Rome 1999
The designations employed and the presentation of material in this publication do not imply the expression of any opinion what so ever on the part of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries.
M-17
ISBN 92-5-104293-4
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CHAPTER 2 – CHARACTERISTICS OF THE COCOON
2.1 Physical characteristics of
the cocoons
2.2 Composition of the cocoon
2.3 Properties of silk
CHAPTER 3 – COCOON QUALITY AND CLASSIFICATION
3.1 Cocoon quality
3.2 Factors influencing cocoon
quality
3.3 Classification of cocoons
3.4 Cocoon testing and grading
3.5 Cocoon exchange
CHAPTER 4 – COCOON DRYING, STORAGE AND SORTING
4.1 Objective of cocoon drying
4.2 Mechanism of cocoon drying
4.3 Various methods of stifling/drying
4.4 Degree of drying
4.5 Types of drying machines and
methods
4.6 Effects of drying conditions
on reeling results
4.7 Cocoon storage
4.8 Sorting of cocoons
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Cocoon cooking methods
5.3 Degree of cocoon cooking
5.4 Adjustments to cooking conditions
5.5 Effects of cocoon cooking
conditions on reeling result
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Various silk reeling devices
6.3 Methods of silk reeling
6.4 Quality control during raw
silk reeling
CHAPTER 7 – RE-REELING AND FINISHING
7.1 Re-reeling
7.1.1 Re-reeling machine and apparatus
7.1.2 How to re-reel
raw silk
7.1.3 Re-reeling
efficiency
7.1.4 Silk end
tying and skein lacing
7.2 Booking and packing
7.3 Storage of silk
CHAPTER 8 – UTILIZATION OF BY-PRODUCTS
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Doupion silk reeling
8.3 Reeling of non-mulberry cocoons
8.4 Manufacture of floss silk
8.4.1 Degumming
8.4.2 Opening-up
8.4.3 Finishing
8.5 Spun silk
8.5.1 Introduction
8.5.2 Yarn count of spun silk
8.6 Wild silk
9.1 Type of water
9.2 Impurities
9.3 Methods of water softening
9.4 Quality standard of water
9.5 Analysis of reeling water
10.1 Annual requirement of cocoons
10.2 Equipment for installation
10.3 Location and space
10.4 Quality and quantity of
filature water
10.5 Selection of proper machinery
11.1 Introduction
11.2 Quality test
11.2.1 Visual inspection
11.2.2 Uniformity
11.2.3 General finish
11.2.4 Nature
11.3 Sample test
11.3.1 Winding test
11.3.2 Size deviation test
11.3.3 Evenness test
11.3.4 Cleanness test
11.3.5 Neatness test
11.3.6 Tenacity and elongation test
11.3.7 Cohesion test
11.4 Quantitative test
11.4.1 Conditioned
weight test
11.5 Raw silk classification
11.5.1 Grades
11.5.2 Grading with the major tests
11.5.3 Degrading with the auxiliary tests
11.6 Miscellaneous tests
11.6.1 Boil-off test for raw silk
11.7 Exfoliation test for raw
silk
APPENDIX (List of illustrations)
LIST OF FIGURES
1. Size curvature of cocoon bave
2. Neatness defects
3. Texture of the silk thread
4. Hysteresis phenomenon
5. Shelf-carrier/Cabinet type dryer
6. One step band type dryer
7. Hot air circulating type dryer (section)
8. Hot air circulating type dryer (side view)
9. Low temperature air duct type dryer
10. Air expansion in cocoon cavity and partially replaced with steam
At high temperature permeation part
11. Cocoon sucks in water at low temperature permeation part
12. Cocoon cooking machine
13. Ground plan of automatic reeling machine
14. Side view of automatic reeling section
15. Size detector (gauge type)
16. Dimension and structure of semi-automatic reeling machine
17. Spun silk manufacturing process
18. Various cleanness
LIST OF TABLES
1. World production of textile fibres
2. Production of raw silk in the world
3. Daily loss in weight of fresh cocoons
4. Variation of shell thickness in different parts
5. Composition of cocoon
6. Sericin content to different layers of cocoon shell
7. Amino acid composition of fibroin and sericin
8. Specific gravity and tensile strength of various
fibres
9. Effect of transportation containers of fresh cocoons
on reeling results
10. Cocoon classification systems of major sericultural countries
11. Cocoon classification
12. An example of cocoon pricing by visual inspection
13. Optimum moisture content of dried cocoons
14. Initial temperature for cocoon drying
15. Effect of incomplete drying on result of reeling
16. Qualities of raw silk reeled from sorted cocoons
16a. Criteria of insufficient and overcooking
17. Adjustment of cooking methods depending on variations in cocoon
quality
18. Points for cooking operations
19. Effects of cooking degrees on reeling results
20. Comparisons of structural features of various reeling machines
21. Effect of various reeling velocities on silk yield and quality
with
different grades of reelability cocoon
22. Relationship between reeling velocity and evenness of raw silk
quality
23. Prevention method against various types of cleanness defects
24. Temperature and humidity of rereeling in the machine
25. Reeling efficiency of doupion silk by the sizes of thread
26. A trial of Tasar cocoon reeling
27. A survey of characteristics of Eri cocoon bave
28. Yield of flow silk and spun silk by different cocoon raw materials
29. Ion-exchange types and the quality of water treated
30. Standard quality of reeling water
31. pH values and water hardness suitable for cooking parts
32. Items of machinery required for a silk reeling factory
33. Building space required for each item of machinery to be installed
78
34. Average speed and winding period for winding test
35. Number of skeins in a lot and graduation in scale
36. An example for size deviation test
37. Deducting points by neatness results
38-1 ISA Classification table for raw silk of category I
38-2 ISA Classification table for raw silk of category II
38-3 ISA Classification table for raw silk of category III
39. Chinese classification table for raw silk
40-1 Japanese classification table for raw silk of category I
(18 denier and finer)
40-2 Japanese classification table for raw silk of category II
(19 to 33 denier)
40-3 Japanese classification table for raw silk of category III
(34 denier and coarser)
41-1 Indian classification table for Class I raw silk [
2.0 tex (or 18
denier) and finer]
41-2 Indian classification table for Class I raw silk (2.1 to 3.7 tex
or 19 to 33 denier)
41-3 Indian classification table for Class I raw silk (3.8 tex or 34denier and
coarser)