There is one type of agriculture that is more demanding and labour some than others, but essential from a social point of view, and that is mountain farming. The EU has ranked them among the most “disadvantaged areas” for agriculture. However, in mountainous regions, “disadvantaged” is not synonymous with marginal. On the contrary, in these areas, agriculture is central. “Mountains are kept alive only through agriculture, it’s integral to country life,” said Hubert Ungerer, who is responsible for an EU-financed project called LaugenRind, set up in response to the milk crisis