This paper presents an historical account of the significance of wine production in a region of south-central Hungary, with a particular focus on the transformations accomplished under socialism and the problems faced by this branch of the rural economy in the post socialist years. Drawing on his own and other sociological data from two contrasting communities, the author shows that this sector was a major beneficiary of ‘market socialism’; but this very success has led to formidable problems of adjustment, which EU accession is unlikely to ameliorate. The paper also raises more fundamental issues concerning continuity and change in rural social structure before, during and after socialism.