Food and Agriculture Organization of the United NationsFood and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations

A cup of tea… or cha?


Celebrating tea as part of our heritage and history

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Tea is currently grown in around 50 countries and over 13 million people depend on the tea sector for their livelihoods. On International Tea Day, we celebrate its fascinating heritage! © FAO/Mary Jane dela Cruz

21/05/2024

Did you know that most of the world uses the same two words for tea? One variation is the one used in English (tea), French (thé), Spanish (té) and Dutch (thee). The other is a variation of chá (in Mandarin and Cantonese), such as chai in Hindi, shay in Arabic and chay in Russian. There’s an interesting reason for this.  

Both words originate in China, which is widely believed to be the ‘home of tea’ and where the plant was first domesticated, and come from the Chinese character: 茶. In Mandarin and Cantonese, it’s pronounced ‘cha’. Countries around the world that use the word ‘cha’ originally imported tea over land, through the Silk Road, from the northern regions of China where they pronounce the word ‘cha’.  

However, in the dialect spoken in the southern coastal province of Fujian, the word is pronounced ‘te’. This port is where 17th century Dutch merchants traded tea to bring to Europe, bringing back with them the pronunciation of ‘tea’. There are, of course, exceptions to this. But for the most part, wherever you are in the world, there’s a good chance you’ll know how to ask for a cup of tea with just those two words!  

Tea’s etymology is just one element of its fascinating heritage. Its growth and production have been a part of cultures across the globe for centuries. To acknowledgement of this, the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) has designated five incredible tea production areas as Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS) for their combination of unique landscapes, agricultural heritage and traditional farming methods passed down for generations. 

Pu'er Traditional Tea Agroecosystem in Yunnan Province, China 

Yunnan province is considered the birthplace of the world’s tea. The Pu'er Tea Agroecosystem in Yunnan is the world's largest area of tea forest plantations, where many tea trees are planted together in a simulation of forest ecosystem, established by village ancestors thousands of years ago and farmed using traditional methods. The system is rich in bio- and cultural diversity and is composed of old wild tea tree populations and ancient cultivated tea plantations.  

Local communities grow tea in harmony with other products necessary for livelihoods and food. Cultivated tea forests usually have three layers: the tree layer, the tea plant and bush layer and the herb layer. The tree layer consists of tall natural trees, offering shade and protection from the elements, with the tea plant and bush layer providing a source of income for farmers. The last layer contains natural herbs, as well as cultivated grain crops and vegetables. 

Pest control is carried out with natural methods that even help improve the flavour of the tea.  

Left/Top: Tea grown in the Jasmine and Tea Culture system is naturally scented with jasmine. ©ZHANG Renfeng Right/Bottom: Tea from Shizuoka, Japan, is known for its distinct aroma and deep-green colour. ©Kakegawa City

Jasmine and Tea Culture system in Fuhzou City, China 

Jasmine plants and tea trees usually grow in different environments, but due to the diversified microclimate and mountainous slopes of the Fuhzou area, the landscape allow for both. This unique ecosystem means the tea is naturally scented with jasmine, a method developed in this area over 1 000 years ago and continued to this day.  

The Jasmine-tea system is a main source of livelihoods for the local community and the ecosystem it grows in supports diverse crop growth. Mushrooms, jasmine tea, milk and meat are all produced in the area, thanks to the jasmine and tea trees that enhance water and soil conservation in many ways. Jasmine trees also provide protection from the elements. Planted on the riverside plains and shoals, they prevent rain from directly scouring the riverside, mitigating soil and water erosion.  

Anxi Tieguanyin Tea Culture System, China 

The Tieguanyin tea tree, first discovered in the tea gardens of Anxi, China, is where the beloved Oolong tea originates.  

In addition to the 100 varieties of tea trees that are planted in the Anxi Tea Culture System, crops like maize, paddy, tubers (such as potato and sweet potato) and oil-yielding crops (including soybean and peanut) provide food and nutrition for the local communities. Livestock such as poultry live among the tea gardens, while freshwater aquatic products, like carp and white shrimp, are cultured in ponds surrounding the tea garden – further contributing to its rich agro-biodiversity.  

Through cultural customs such as the spirit of chadao (The Way of Tea, a reference to the artistic, ceremonial way of tea making, tea drinking and relevant rituals) and the so-called Tea Battle (a way in which tea farmers communicate, learn and compete with each other about tea-making techniques), the Anxi Tieguanyin tea culture continues to influence social customs and tea-making techniques around the world today.    

Traditional Tea-grass Integrated System in Shizuoka, Japan  

The Shizuoka prefecture is the greatest tea-producing region in Japan, with around 78 percent of the area’s farmers depending on tea for income. The area is known for its deep-steamed tea, which has a distinct aroma and deep green colour.  

Tea farmers also use shared fields called Chagusaba to grow and harvest natural grass that is then cut and spread over the tea field for better soil management and improved tea quality. Some Chagusaba are commons in which communities may retrieve grass resources when they need, whilst some Chagusuba are managed in a more structured way.  

This management of semi-natural grassland contributes to harnessing biodiversity. A complementary tradition called Yui, which is the set of social rules that guide the local farming community, has maintained Chagusaba through cooperation among local communities. Chagusaba and tea fields are distributed in a mosaic fashion creating a remarkable landscape. 

This site also developed a certification system and product label to indicate the degree of farmers’ engagement in the Chagusaba methods which reflect the contribution to biodiversity conservation. This informs the consumers about good agricultural practices in the production process, incentivizing them to purchase tea products that are grown sustainably.  

Tea grown in the Republic of Korea’s Hwagae-myeon area is naturally adapted to mountainous slopes and difficult conditions. ©Hadong county office

Traditional Hadong Tea Agrosystem in Hwagae-myeon, Republic of Korea  

The Traditional Hadong tea agrosystem is an agricultural system created by local communities based on 1 200 years of adaptation to the barren environment of Jiri Mountain. Over 90 percent of the Hwagae-myeon area is steep mountainous land with frequent flooding during the monsoon season, making stable agricultural activities here very difficult. The people of Hwagae rely on tea agriculture instead of rice paddies to make their living. 

Over the last 1 200 years Hadong tea plants have adapted to the harsh environment, reproducing via insects and the wind, giving each tea field genetic diversity. The tea fields around Hwagae stream at the foot of the mountain exist in harmony with the surrounding natural environment, maintaining excellent biodiversity. Varieties of traditional Hadong tea plants are numerous, encouraging biodiversity in the area. Forests and rivers provide a home for diverse species of animals and plants indigenous to the Jiri Mountain area.  

Tea has travelled across the world over the centuries, from its origins in China thousands of years ago to its status as a household staple for many across the world today. Tea production and processing is a main source of livelihoods for millions of families in low and middle-income countries.  

Tea production is vital to the fight against hunger, the reduction of extreme poverty, the empowerment of women and the sustainable use of land. This is why the United Nations designated 21 May as International Tea Day, to celebrate tea production and raise public awareness of the importance of tea for rural development, sustainable livelihoods and its contribution to the Sustainable Development Goals. 

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This story is an update of one first published on 20/05/2021.